FLT rear master cylinder bore
#1
FLT rear master cylinder bore
ok guys, i have a mix/match bike but i need to get some rear brakes working. the rear caliper is a 81 FLT caliper. it seems to be fine, but the master cylinder seems to be a little shot. anyway, since the forward controls are pretty crappy already i'm planning on replacing them.
so question. i've seen forward controls with 3/4 and 5/8 master cylinders. i can't for the life of me find out what the stock caliper would call for as far as bore size. so should i go with the 3/4 or 5/8 bore? please note that i will be using the stock 81 FLT rear caliper AND the stock FLT brake lines!!
so question. i've seen forward controls with 3/4 and 5/8 master cylinders. i can't for the life of me find out what the stock caliper would call for as far as bore size. so should i go with the 3/4 or 5/8 bore? please note that i will be using the stock 81 FLT rear caliper AND the stock FLT brake lines!!
#2
the length of the pedal and bore size have to be matched to get the proper pressure to the caliper this quote for auto but same theory.
when I set up race cars I would use a pressure gauge plumbed in the the lines at the caliper front and rear to get the correct bias. for a drag race car we want more brake to the rear due to the much larger tire in the rear. motor bike of course we don't need to bother with that since we have control of the brakes on the fly. I would guess if you got forward control matched from the manufacture it would be set up correctly but always worth check the pressure at the rear.
I helped a guy with a car that stopped horrible at the top end of the 1/4 mile. after checking out the pressure we had to add 2 inches length to the brake lever to get the pressure up enough to stop the car. that's all it needed to make the car stop better. hope this helps
BTW most the after market M/C are 3/4
when I set up race cars I would use a pressure gauge plumbed in the the lines at the caliper front and rear to get the correct bias. for a drag race car we want more brake to the rear due to the much larger tire in the rear. motor bike of course we don't need to bother with that since we have control of the brakes on the fly. I would guess if you got forward control matched from the manufacture it would be set up correctly but always worth check the pressure at the rear.
I helped a guy with a car that stopped horrible at the top end of the 1/4 mile. after checking out the pressure we had to add 2 inches length to the brake lever to get the pressure up enough to stop the car. that's all it needed to make the car stop better. hope this helps
BTW most the after market M/C are 3/4
®
AIRHEART BRAKE
A DIVISION OF TOL-O-MATIC, INC.
How to Select a Master Cylinder
Cylinder Selection
In putting together a good vehicular braking system, selecting the
correct master cylinder is important.
Master cylinder requirements
are linked to pedal ratio
. The
recommended pedal ratios are based on 150 pounds maximum force
on the lever to attain the maximum rated pressure for the master
cylinder. The mechanical advantage or pedal ratio, is the "A"
dimension divided by the "B" dimension.
The recommended push rod cone angle is 5 degrees maximum.
If the bore size of the master cylinder is decreased and the mechanical
advantage (pedal ratio) and push on the pedal remain the same, the
fluid pressure (PSI) and the stroke both increase.
For example, a 100 pound push on the pedal and 4:1 mechanical
advantage (pedal ratio) gives a 400 pound push on the master
cylinder.
With a 7/8-inch bore master cylinder
, the piston area is 0.60 square
inches and the pressure developed is 400
= 667 PSI.
0.60
The stroke to move 0.6 cubic inches of fluid is 0.6
= 1 inch.
0.60
With a 3/4-inch bore master cylinder
, the piston area is 0.44 square
inches and the pressure developed is 400
= 909 PSI.
0.44
The stroke to move 0.6 cubic inches of fluid is 0.64
= 1.4 inches.
0.44
As a general rule, a person is able to exert approximately 150 pounds
of pedal pressure, 75 pounds of lever pressure and 50 pounds of grip
pressure
AIRHEART BRAKE
A DIVISION OF TOL-O-MATIC, INC.
How to Select a Master Cylinder
Cylinder Selection
In putting together a good vehicular braking system, selecting the
correct master cylinder is important.
Master cylinder requirements
are linked to pedal ratio
. The
recommended pedal ratios are based on 150 pounds maximum force
on the lever to attain the maximum rated pressure for the master
cylinder. The mechanical advantage or pedal ratio, is the "A"
dimension divided by the "B" dimension.
The recommended push rod cone angle is 5 degrees maximum.
If the bore size of the master cylinder is decreased and the mechanical
advantage (pedal ratio) and push on the pedal remain the same, the
fluid pressure (PSI) and the stroke both increase.
For example, a 100 pound push on the pedal and 4:1 mechanical
advantage (pedal ratio) gives a 400 pound push on the master
cylinder.
With a 7/8-inch bore master cylinder
, the piston area is 0.60 square
inches and the pressure developed is 400
= 667 PSI.
0.60
The stroke to move 0.6 cubic inches of fluid is 0.6
= 1 inch.
0.60
With a 3/4-inch bore master cylinder
, the piston area is 0.44 square
inches and the pressure developed is 400
= 909 PSI.
0.44
The stroke to move 0.6 cubic inches of fluid is 0.64
= 1.4 inches.
0.44
As a general rule, a person is able to exert approximately 150 pounds
of pedal pressure, 75 pounds of lever pressure and 50 pounds of grip
pressure
#4
#5
thanks grinder. i have ordered all new brake lines (both the steel and the rubber lines), the caliper seems fine. the rear brake will slowly set and lock up the rear tire right now, that is why i'm redoing the system.
since i'm using the stock caliper i wanted to know what the stock master cylinder bore was so i can make sure i get a new one that will work.
so now i know to look for a new set of forward controls with a 5/8 bore master cylinder!!
since i'm using the stock caliper i wanted to know what the stock master cylinder bore was so i can make sure i get a new one that will work.
so now i know to look for a new set of forward controls with a 5/8 bore master cylinder!!
#6
I don't believe that applies to the rear..that is why they make both sizes for the rear. The FLT is a really big caliper...you need to check what size your MC is now. The 3/4 and 5/8 MC use different size banjo bolts...so if you buy the wrong one it will not work with the stock brake line.
#7
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#8
#10
unless you want to spend the $$ on new controls why not build a new lever putting it above the foot peg with a straight piece to to the peddle and get the leverage correct?
looks like you would need to be standing right on top of that peddle to get it to do anything? just thinking out loud. you might have to get creative to clear the exhaust pipe... I'd guess that is why the lever you got there looks like it does.
not the best image but this is what Deans brake looks like and pretty sure it is a 76 and stock stuff
btw
since I didn't remember I went and measured my M/C bore on the aftermarket cyl. I have and my 91 fl both are 3/4"
I don't think the caliper would care what bore Cyl. you have so long as you get the correct pressure to it to stop the bike.
looks like you would need to be standing right on top of that peddle to get it to do anything? just thinking out loud. you might have to get creative to clear the exhaust pipe... I'd guess that is why the lever you got there looks like it does.
not the best image but this is what Deans brake looks like and pretty sure it is a 76 and stock stuff
btw
since I didn't remember I went and measured my M/C bore on the aftermarket cyl. I have and my 91 fl both are 3/4"
I don't think the caliper would care what bore Cyl. you have so long as you get the correct pressure to it to stop the bike.