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74 Superglide Won't Start

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Old 08-29-2014, 08:21 AM
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Unhappy 74 Superglide Won't Start

Hi, I'm helping my uncle sell his restored 1975 Superglide Shovel head and I need a little help as I don't really know much about these old models.

It has an electric starter as well as a kick start and when he tried to start it it would just turn over and over but never actually started and after several attempts he gave up. A few seconds later I notice quite a bit of oil pouring out of the crank case vent. He said it's always done that when he cranks it up for the first time after it's been sitting for a while. When he runs it regular it doesn't do it. Also he says these old bikes are very finicky when it comes to starting and it take a very specific sequence of throttle, choke and cranking to get it to start and he doesn't remember exactly how. If we're going to sell it then we need to make sure it cranks when someone comes to see it.

So.. Does anyone have any advice on how I can get this thing started? Is there some sort of procedure that we need to do?

Also, if it helps, he's got an aftermarket carb on it. He told me the type but I can't remember the name. He says it's a common, more reliable replacement for these old engines. And he says it definitely runs and that it's just been a while since he started it.
 
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Old 08-29-2014, 09:00 AM
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Oil coming out of the crancased is due to sumping, not uncommon if a bike has been setting for a long time.

How long has it been sitting?

How old is the gas?

How old is the battery

What kinda carb? Most common replacement would have been an S&S B carb, depending on when the bike was taken apart and put back together in running condition.

You use the word "restored". In a true sense your dad's bike hasn't been restored because it has aftermarket carb. (Woulda come with a Bendix, which are actually a very simple carb to run and rebuild.)

Not much to these old bikes. Acquired a 75 FXE that had been sitting for almost 18 years. Took 25 minutes to get it running is all. With a good and well charged battery, good gas, choke on and a couple of twists on the throttle it should fire up. Stick a pan under the vent to catch the oil coming out the breather and once it catches up it will stop.
 
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Old 08-29-2014, 09:13 AM
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I'm sure it's been sitting up for at least several months, maybe a year. I did think about the gas. May have to drain it and put new gas in it.

The battery isn't very old. He had a battery tender on it and from the sounds of it, it had plenty of cranking power. He laid on the starter for a while and there was no sign of the battery weakening at all.

The bike was put together just a couple of years ago. And you're right.. It's not all original. He wanted to build a "show bike" but the shop he chose to use made some critical mistakes that resulted in him not being able to enter it into competition shows. So it's restored "like new" but not everything is original.

Good to hear about your 75 starting up with no issue. Makes me confident that I should be able to get this one started.

Also, if you don't mind me asking, do you still have it or did you sell it? I'm trying to get an idea of a selling price. He spent way more to fix it up than it's worth I'm sure, but they seem to be going for alot lower than either of us expected. I've been seeing between 5 - 9k.
 
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Old 08-29-2014, 10:23 AM
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Danny...when you drain the gas outta the tanks, also drain the gas in the float bowl. You might pull the air cleaner cover and give the throttle a couple of twists just to make sure gas is getting down the throat.

Still have the 75...depending on condtion and what was done your pricing is probably close. Think depending on where you live the pricing is 5-7.5K. I haven't seen Shovels bring 9 large since the recession of '08. Prices on Pans and Shovels took a huge hit. Knuckles and pre-war bikes were not affected however.

Really helps to have receipts for the work done. I have a habit of keeping those as well as before/after pics so that if I decide to sell the person buying can see everything/all that has been done, and has an idea of how it all came together (or back together when it was a basket case).

GLWS

If you get the opportunity, post up some pics.
 
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Old 08-29-2014, 10:53 AM
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Thanks for the bowl and air cleaner tip. I'll do both!

And I'm going over there Sunday evening to take some pics so I can get start listing it for sale. Before and after pics are a great idea.. I hope he has some!

I'll post some Sunday or Monday. It's really a great looking bike! It looks like a brand new 1975.. Barring some of the non-original part of course.
 
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Old 08-29-2014, 09:53 PM
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Coupl pics of the '75 FXE I acquired. Obvioulsly forward controls, pullbacks and sissy bars are not correct. Best part is that the original owner kept everything he took off to modify the bike (and included the parts with the purchase).

I haven't taken any pics since I stared cleaning it up and getting it back to stock configuration but I will once I get it reassembled.



 
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Old 09-01-2014, 10:53 AM
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So now the bike is at my house so I can work on it at my leisure and get it running good before I put it up for sale. Perfect!

Here's what I've done so far.. Still no start though.

Drained the gas from the carb, tank and reserve. The gas in the bowl was bright green! Maybe a fuel stabilizer?? Also had to free a stuck float needle because the bowl wasn't getting any fresh gas. Got gas all the way to the bowl now but still no start.

Tried a little starter fluid.. Nothing. Tried a squirt of gas in the carb and still nothing. Not even a pop!

Next I started checking for spark. It's got nothing coming from the coil! The coil looks brand new so I dont suspect it's bad. Maybe a loose wire? Does this thing have fuses?? I'm gonna start working backwards from the coil and see what I can find.

Any suggestions?

Also, here's a couple of pics.





 
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Old 09-01-2014, 11:34 AM
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And from what I can tell so far, it appears to have a Dynatek electronic ignition installed on it. No points and condenser.
 
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Old 09-01-2014, 11:46 AM
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all this and in only 3 days; different exhaust, different seat, different front sliders, different handle bars, different air cleaner,different shifter and rear brake assemblies, different battery, different solenoid, different front tire, new oil cooler, new painted front fender, new chrome tach and speedo...you are one mighty fast worker for someone who (in your own words) "don't really know much about these old models"
 
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Old 09-01-2014, 11:47 AM
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Damn, that bike looks brand new and friggn nice. How many miles on her? And with the exception of the seat, carb, Dyna tech system, oil temp gauge and oil pressure gauge and voltage regulator, it sure looks completely stock.

Did you twist the throttle with the air cleaner off to ensure you are now getting gas, now to the carb? Also, there is a fuel filter in the tank. To get at it you have to pull the on-off valve. That green **** may have fouled the filter as well. Once you have checked that and put some gas in the tank, open the valve with the line unplugged for the carb and make sure you are getting gas coming out of the tank and through the line. If the tank is clean and the filter unplugged and no gas, then there is a problem with the gas cap. You may need to replace the gasket in the cap becuase it is blocking the venting system in the cap.

No spark from coil could still be a bad coil even if it 'looks new'. Could also be a bad connection in one of the wires going to the coil Are plug wires good? Are the plug caps securely on the plugs. Not loose? Are the plug wires going into the coil in all the way? Think I would inspect the setting on the Dynatech ignition system as well.

There is a set of three circuit breakers attached to a mounting bracket on the rear fender behind the oil bag. If you pull the seat you will see them immediately. So you can check the connections there and make sure they are not loose.

Check your ground wire and make sure it is tight. Check the wires on the + side of the battery and sure that connection is tight. Check the wires going to the solenoid, starter motor and starter relay (it is under the battery tray) and make there are no loose connections. Check the wires going to your ignition switch and make sure none are loose.

Check the top and bottom of the wires to the coil to make sure the nuts are tight. There is a terminal board behind the coil. If you pull it just use a wire wrap and hang the coil from the frame while you make sure all those wires are good. Make sure the plug in from your voltage regulator to the plug in on the left case for your stator is in all the way.



Seems as if you have good cranking power it will be something simple. Did your uncle say how it was running before it sat? Any chance of talking with the wrench who did the ignition upgrade?
 

Last edited by panz4ever; 09-01-2014 at 12:05 PM.


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