I didn't adjust the clutch at the last service, but did it the service before last, so it's been about 8000 kms. I adjusted it yesterday by the book, because I started having trouble finding neutral but only when hot. I backed the adjuster screw off half a turn, correct slack at lever etc etc. It shifts smoothly and I can get neutral easily when rolling to a stop, but when I pulled the bike into the garage it takes a good few minutes of trying to find neutral with bike running and stationary. It's slightly better than before the adjustment, but not great. So finally to my question, I can't seem to get my stupid brain around how this thing works, which would help with finding neutral, back the adjusting screw off more or less, ie back it of only a quarter turn or go 3/4 of a turn before locking it down? Hopefully that made sense, thanks guys, Matt.

 

Just trying to predict the first response: the primary fluid level is correct!

 

Hi Matt from the UK, I feel your pain! My Glide is much older than your bike, so the solution may not be quite the same. What I do is adjust at the clutch as per the book, but then take out almost all of the clutch cable adjustment, which works for me. In heavy traffic heat build up soon makes finding neutral, when stationary, almost impossible. Whenever I can I snick into neutral before I stop. Hope that helps!

 

Thanks Graham, I'm pretty much in the same boat, I can easily get neutral a split second before stopping at a red light, as long as the bikes moving. I just wish I could get it as easily when stationary, like I used to. Not sure what has changed besides adjustment, the clutch only has 15,000 kms on it!

 

That doesn't make sense, with so low a mileage. I did have a bike some years ago which I had problems with and the dealer pulled my leg that I didn't hammer the clutch enough, as it still looked as good as new! It is just possible that you have a slightly warped plate in there, which is worth checking, if you feel inclined. I have recently swapped over to a set of Barnett kevlar plates, which come with good reviews, although I have yet to ride it to confirm that.

 

Bugger, that's something I never even considered. I think I might play around with adjustment a bit more and I guess if I can't get it any better I'll need to look at the plates. Thanks for the feedback!
Cheers, Matt.

 

I have been having a hard time finding neutral on my bike too no matter the clutch or cable adjustment. Turns out my main drive bearing in the transmission is going out, will see if that is fixed after the transmission is rebuilt...

 

Back of the adjuster a little less 1/4 of a turn see if it helps.

 

Don`t get to fixated on getting the transmission to find neutral.

If you adjust the clutch with the sole purpose of making it easy to find neutral, you may have it adjusted incorrectly for proper engagement.

You may be able to get the clutch to disengage well, but the downside is it may not be engaging as well as it should.

Also, when you adjust too much disengagement, you lose engagement, and also may be putting constant pressure on the throwout bearing, a good way to fry the bearing and the clutch pushrod.

Don`t expect miracles when it comes to finding neutral.

 

Be sure it's cold before adjusting. Then have the correct oil in it as far as velocity and that it is at the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring. Now here is where Harley is wrong. Only back off the cable length a few turns at most. Now break the clutch lock nut and screw the adjuster in till it bottoms. Now, turn it in two more complete turns in to deburr that fine thread adjuster. Now back back out a few and then back in till it touches again. Now do your 1/2 to 3/4 turn back off and tighten the locknut. (note that fine thread only requires 72 in/lbs torque..everyone over tightens it and is why you need to deburr thread as I say above) That will give you clearance required so even if it gets smoking hot and swells, there will be clearance room.
Now adjust the clearance on the cable to a maximum of 1/16 or 1.6 MM checking at both locks sides of the bars. That will give you all the throw possible to completely disengage of the clutch drive and driven disks.
Now only try to find neutral from low. Pushing bike back slightly with your right leg as you lever up will probably help.

Not sure were Mark got that 1/4 backoff except for a Sporty which is a front side coarse thread push rod which on them, you can use that amount.