Can someone school me on how this changes performance? What are some things to consider, like wear on other stock parts, or is this a mod that has no negative effects on a stock motor?

 

well the stock cams are basically junk
no lift no duration no over lap etc.
the cams I chose are the least radical s&s cams and they make tremendous difference in performance the only draw back is a little added noise not enough to be noticed with after market pipes..no added wear on stock parts and you also get rid of the cam shoe problem ..best money I have spent on the bike..well maybe except the seat to make momma happy

 

What Softail said. Cams increase the duration, lift of the valves, and change the characteristics of overlap which all increase the flow of AF mixture you can pack into the cylinder for combustion. The least radical cams (less lift) are the same I am looking at but can't aford on my student budget :-( but it depends on what you want to do: race or driveability. Changing cams changes low, mid, and topend RPM ranges and affect driveability at those points. Do some research before choosing since some call for head, pushrod, valve and spring, or bearing changes requiring case machining (another reason for the least radical since they usually use stock valve train components without modification). If you need definitions of overlap, lift, duration, etc., and formulas for calculating but it will be a huge post; may be something in the sticky's too.

 

Thanks for your input. I am also wondering does this increase torque and horsepower #'s? What I am looking to do is start my build in baby steps, can i start with a cam and gear change this year and next year port heads etc.. will my new cam be compatible with say a 103 build?
I don't want to do things twice, yet start somewhere that isn't to extreme until the headwork is done..To tell the truth I really just want to smoke a couple of guys at work from an 08 Ultra, 08 sporty, and the 08 Victory vision with his temp. gauge and heated hand grips and stereo and and!!

 

I had the S&S 510 gear driven cams installed at 38,000 miles and now have 60,000 on that engine with no problem whatsoever. I also gained about 10 lbs of torque and about 10 hp. The only other thing that was done was that I installed new adjustable pushrods, but no headwork. I do wish now I would have installed new lifters, although I haven't had any problem with the stock ones. Total cost parts and labor was around $1100. Now I want a big bore kit, but thats gonna hafta wait.

 

I have been talking to a shop in Strathmore Ab, I have heard good things about. I guess I'll take the plunge at tax time...(need for more bark out of my Fatkitty)

 

guess I should have added it cost me 1300 total and yes I got the push rods and new push rod tubes it was the ss 510 cam it will make bigger diff with head work and the big bore also but that is further down the road..
as for out running the sporty and the vision I don't know if just the cams will so it or not but good luck

 

went with the S&S 510 gear drive and adjustable push rods no more chains and adjusters wearing out, installed at 19000 miles works great

 

thanks I will keep you posted on what I do....

 

Kits also available for cams, pistons, and heads in the SE catalogue which are reasonably priced and will give you kick. Just be careful what you buy because sometimes it's a compromise i.e. give up low end driveability for high RPM torque, etc. A SERT (around $300) will also give you more of what you want with the above modifications and easy tuning on a dyno.