Labor charge to change front drive belt pulley?
#1
Labor charge to change front drive belt pulley?
I am considering making a "gearing" change on my 2014 Breakout, because I now have the Stage 4 Racing kit, and that kit makes the engine operate best at notably higher rpm than the stock engine. For example, the rev limit is increased by 13%, and while the power gains at higher rpm are really impressive, the gains at 2000 or 2500 rpm are relatively small, since the cam in the Stage 4 kit has about 255 or 260 degrees duration.
But, I have been warned that the labor charge to make the swap to a smaller front pulley could be pretty big on a Softail. I suppose it would be basically the same labor charge as to change the drive belt on any Softail, plus the charge to change the front pulley, since apparently the belt has to come right off (can't just "loosen it" via the adjustors?).
Can someone here give me:
- Some idea of what the charge at an HD dealership might be? (I have no facility to do that kind of work)
- Some idea of whether a 28 or 29 tooth pulley might be available from an aftermarket supplier? (I've been told the smallest from HD is 30 teeth).
Jim G
But, I have been warned that the labor charge to make the swap to a smaller front pulley could be pretty big on a Softail. I suppose it would be basically the same labor charge as to change the drive belt on any Softail, plus the charge to change the front pulley, since apparently the belt has to come right off (can't just "loosen it" via the adjustors?).
Can someone here give me:
- Some idea of what the charge at an HD dealership might be? (I have no facility to do that kind of work)
- Some idea of whether a 28 or 29 tooth pulley might be available from an aftermarket supplier? (I've been told the smallest from HD is 30 teeth).
Jim G
#2
#3
#4
I just talked to indy shop on Friday about same thing. Transmission pulley is 4 hours labor plus pulley, gaskets, and possible shorter belt. You can also change compensator sprocket for 1 hour labor plus $50 for sprocket and $150 for shorter chain.
You can go to Baker Drivetrain and click on factory support link, then click on gear ratio calculator. It will show you different sprocket or pulley changes you can make and what effect it will have on rpm's. I was thinking of going from 32t tranny pulley to 30t pulley, but am now thinking of going to 23t compensator sprocket - cheaper and a little more torque. I do have the 5 speed. There are smaller tranny pulleys for more torque than the 30t if you want more low end and higher rpms - I know I have seen at least a 29t. Look at Baker or Andrews. Andrews is cheaper, but Baker unit is much lighter and is supposed to have a coating that preserves teeth life.
You can go to Baker Drivetrain and click on factory support link, then click on gear ratio calculator. It will show you different sprocket or pulley changes you can make and what effect it will have on rpm's. I was thinking of going from 32t tranny pulley to 30t pulley, but am now thinking of going to 23t compensator sprocket - cheaper and a little more torque. I do have the 5 speed. There are smaller tranny pulleys for more torque than the 30t if you want more low end and higher rpms - I know I have seen at least a 29t. Look at Baker or Andrews. Andrews is cheaper, but Baker unit is much lighter and is supposed to have a coating that preserves teeth life.
Last edited by txphatboy; 03-16-2014 at 10:15 AM.
#5
I just talked to indy shop on Friday about same thing. Transmission pulley is 4 hours labor plus pulley, gaskets, and possible shorter belt. You can also change compensator sprocket for 1 hour labor plus $50 for sprocket and $150 for shorter chain.
You can go to Baker Drivetrain and click on factory support link, then click on gear ratio calculator. It will show you different sprocket or pulley changes you can make and what effect it will have on rpm's. I was thinking of going from 32t tranny pulley to 30t pulley, but am now thinking of going to 23t compensator sprocket - cheaper and a little more torque. I do have the 5 speed. There are smaller tranny pulleys for more torque than the 30t if you want more low end and higher rpms - I know I have seen at least a 29t. Look at Baker or Andrews. Andrews is cheaper, but Baker unit is much lighter and is supposed to have a coating that preserves teeth life.
You can go to Baker Drivetrain and click on factory support link, then click on gear ratio calculator. It will show you different sprocket or pulley changes you can make and what effect it will have on rpm's. I was thinking of going from 32t tranny pulley to 30t pulley, but am now thinking of going to 23t compensator sprocket - cheaper and a little more torque. I do have the 5 speed. There are smaller tranny pulleys for more torque than the 30t if you want more low end and higher rpms - I know I have seen at least a 29t. Look at Baker or Andrews. Andrews is cheaper, but Baker unit is much lighter and is supposed to have a coating that preserves teeth life.
IF so, that would be better in multiple ways:
1. Lower cost apparently
2. Does not affect final belt drive adjustment range and keeps the final drive belt, a wear part, "factory standard"
3. No speedometer should result if the gearing change is made upstream of the vehicle speed sensor (VSS), which changing the primary certainly is upstream of the VSS
I have the 6-speed cruise drive of course. I need to check to see if a suitable alternate set of primary sprocket and chain parts exist for my setup. Ideally, I would want a 10% to 13% increase in rpm. i.e. engine primary sprocket smaller by 10 to 13% or transmission primary sprocket 10 to 13% larger.
Jim G
#6
Not sure what is available for your year bike, but dropping from stock 25t sprocket to 23T sprocket on the 5 speed is like a 9% torque increase. I believe 22t sprocket is around 14% increase. The 30t tranny pulley falls between the 24t and 23t sprockets as far as rpm/torque.
I am scheduled to get my bike retuned next week, after having some fuel pressure problems fixed. I am going to ride it a little and see if I want to lower the gearing shortly after.
I am scheduled to get my bike retuned next week, after having some fuel pressure problems fixed. I am going to ride it a little and see if I want to lower the gearing shortly after.
#7
But, I have been warned that the labor charge to make the swap to a smaller front pulley could be pretty big on a Softail. I suppose it would be basically the same labor charge as to change the drive belt on any Softail, plus the charge to change the front pulley, since apparently the belt has to come right off (can't just "loosen it" via the adjustors?).
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#8
Back when i had a 2008 model 1200 Sportster, I DID do a gearing change via a primary drive change. I had the dealership swap the 1200 primary sprockets and chain out for an 883 set of sprockets and chain. It was not that bad on cost - well under $500 if I remember correctly. And, coupled with exhaust, intake, and Supertuner, it did turn the 1200 into a rocket. In fact, when i sold it to a friend that runs a used motorcycle dealership, he said it was the quickest Sportster he could recall ever riding (other than any that had had internal engine work).
Jim G
#9
Just saw you are in Austin. I live an hour south of you and worked in Austin for 13 years - daughter is at UT. Anyways, the shop that gave me pricing is V Twin Valley . Little drive east of you, but not bad, and the owner does the work - very conscientious and $60/hr labor rate is pretty cheap these days. He did my big bore kit and some front end work. Real nice guy.
#10
Just saw you are in Austin. I live an hour south of you and worked in Austin for 13 years - daughter is at UT. Anyways, the shop that gave me pricing is V Twin Valley . Little drive east of you, but not bad, and the owner does the work - very conscientious and $60/hr labor rate is pretty cheap these days. He did my big bore kit and some front end work. Real nice guy.
Jim G
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