Installed Steibel Air Horn on my Heritage Springer
#1
Installed Steibel Air Horn on my Heritage Springer
Tonight's project was to install my Steibel Air horn and wire my passing lights to the Aux fuse so that they stay on with the high beam. Factory wiring feeds the passing lights from the low beam so they go off when on high beam.
I'd planned on pulling the tank but realized I could unbolt the tank from both bolts and hold it up with a bungee cord from the rear mount to the mirror to get to everything. That saved cutting the crossover hose and getting gas everywhere so that was nice. But, I'd prepared for that and bought a brass sharkbite hose splice from Home Depot - I'd planned on pinching the line on both sides with needle nose vice grips, cutting the line and taking the tank off, then, install the splice and two new hose clamps so that I could take the tank on and off in the future without draining it. The vice grips do a great job pinching off the line and with the splice I could lose only a tiny bit of gas when removing the tank in the future.
I purchased a regular softail top motor mount from eBay which has the horn mount. The factory horn mount fits the Steibel air horn perfectly - the Steibel is made to grab the factory nut and as you rotate the air horn it tightens up nicely to the rubber bushing. I ran my Road King like this for many miles.
On the Springer you can remove the factory horn power wire (I left the factory horn in place of course for looks) and run it back to the softail horn location (feeding it back through the fork) with no problems...I did cut the end off the wire and re-attached it to save from having to remove my windshield mount as the terminal wouldn't fit through the windshield mount. The Steibel air horn uses the factory hot terminal and I made a ground wire to the motor mount.
While I was at it, I tapped the fender light wire (orange w/ white stripe) and fed the passing light power switch from this wire. Now my passing lights work on high beam. The fender light circuit has a plug on the left side at the front of the tank and that's where I tapped it, the factory passing lights get their feed from a yellow wire from the headlight right there so it was easy to unhook the factory yellow power wire from the low beam and run a new wire to the orange and white fender light wire (which is fed from the Aux circuit so now my passing lights work on the Accessory position on the ignition switch too if I want.
It's too late to take a video of the new horn but I'll do that tomorrow. You guys aren't going to believe how loud it is. I consider it a safety item.
A lot of words here I realize. Thanks for reading. If anyone has any questions please ask.
Here is a pic...more chrome!
I'd planned on pulling the tank but realized I could unbolt the tank from both bolts and hold it up with a bungee cord from the rear mount to the mirror to get to everything. That saved cutting the crossover hose and getting gas everywhere so that was nice. But, I'd prepared for that and bought a brass sharkbite hose splice from Home Depot - I'd planned on pinching the line on both sides with needle nose vice grips, cutting the line and taking the tank off, then, install the splice and two new hose clamps so that I could take the tank on and off in the future without draining it. The vice grips do a great job pinching off the line and with the splice I could lose only a tiny bit of gas when removing the tank in the future.
I purchased a regular softail top motor mount from eBay which has the horn mount. The factory horn mount fits the Steibel air horn perfectly - the Steibel is made to grab the factory nut and as you rotate the air horn it tightens up nicely to the rubber bushing. I ran my Road King like this for many miles.
On the Springer you can remove the factory horn power wire (I left the factory horn in place of course for looks) and run it back to the softail horn location (feeding it back through the fork) with no problems...I did cut the end off the wire and re-attached it to save from having to remove my windshield mount as the terminal wouldn't fit through the windshield mount. The Steibel air horn uses the factory hot terminal and I made a ground wire to the motor mount.
While I was at it, I tapped the fender light wire (orange w/ white stripe) and fed the passing light power switch from this wire. Now my passing lights work on high beam. The fender light circuit has a plug on the left side at the front of the tank and that's where I tapped it, the factory passing lights get their feed from a yellow wire from the headlight right there so it was easy to unhook the factory yellow power wire from the low beam and run a new wire to the orange and white fender light wire (which is fed from the Aux circuit so now my passing lights work on the Accessory position on the ignition switch too if I want.
It's too late to take a video of the new horn but I'll do that tomorrow. You guys aren't going to believe how loud it is. I consider it a safety item.
A lot of words here I realize. Thanks for reading. If anyone has any questions please ask.
Here is a pic...more chrome!
#3
I haven't run the relay yet, I ordered a carb model horn bracket that has an extra tab with a hole for the choke pull, I'm going to use the hole to mount the passing light switch. When I tear it apart I'm going to find a place for the relay, I might take your suggestion, thanks for mentioning it.
#4
This horn is a great mod, it really gets attention when you want attention.
#5
Bringing this to the top so it doesn't get locked to answer a question from a friend.
A year later this horn is still going strong. I'm very happy with this mod.
Oh and putting the passing lights on the Aux fuse has solved the problem I was having blowing the headlight/taillight fuse after I installed the Run Turn Brake controller.
A year later this horn is still going strong. I'm very happy with this mod.
Oh and putting the passing lights on the Aux fuse has solved the problem I was having blowing the headlight/taillight fuse after I installed the Run Turn Brake controller.
#6
#7
Here's what I got, I think it came with the relay but if not they are cheap as is the relay harness which makes for an easy install. Wiring instructions on a relay are easily found on Google or I think I even put them in my thread linked above. Be sure and put a fuse in the wire from the battery to the relay.
The Stebel fits right on the factory mount even using the factory bolt. If you don't use the relay it takes 2 minutes to install, but take the time to do the relay.
I also blew my fuse until I installed the relay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stebel-Nauti...960de3&vxp=mtr
The Stebel fits right on the factory mount even using the factory bolt. If you don't use the relay it takes 2 minutes to install, but take the time to do the relay.
I also blew my fuse until I installed the relay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stebel-Nauti...960de3&vxp=mtr
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#8
#9
Phatboy I think the Howards look great, much better than my Steibel. They cost quite a bit more, however.
I should mention, I've seen folks put the relatively ugly Steibel on one of the frame downtubes, if you get a black one it blends in relatively well and you don't really notice it very much.
I should mention, I've seen folks put the relatively ugly Steibel on one of the frame downtubes, if you get a black one it blends in relatively well and you don't really notice it very much.
Last edited by Joe_G; 11-07-2015 at 07:40 PM.
#10
Got a great deal on a set of used Howards on eBay. I have to say the Stebel is louder, more shrill and ear splitting, and at $34 including the relay on eBay it's a GREAT deal.
But the Howards Horns look a lot better and are still PLENTY loud, a little deeper and not as ear splitting.
Here's some pics. Have to pick up some chrome acorns tomorrow. Super easy install, ask any questions you may have but it's a no brainer.
But the Howards Horns look a lot better and are still PLENTY loud, a little deeper and not as ear splitting.
Here's some pics. Have to pick up some chrome acorns tomorrow. Super easy install, ask any questions you may have but it's a no brainer.