Today:

Third times the charm right? Unfortunately this time it isn't. After the second thread linked above, I found some exposed tail light wires which I wrapped up with electrical tape and secured. Road the bike since last Friday allllllll the way up to this morning. Couple miles away from my house dies completely again. This time it doesn't turn back on when turning it off and on.
Same problem, digits light up when the bike is in accessory mode, turn to run speedo digits turn off. In accessory mode with the digits on, every time I pull in the front brake the digits disappear, let go, they come back on. No other lights (oil, nuetral nothing). This time since it didn't start back up I noticed that even in accessory mode and run the highlights and taillights were off. Still off when pulling in the brake.
From here I scooted over to the side. Pulled the seat, and pulled every single fuse, everything is intact and nothing is blown. Except those big black relays? they looked fine, but not sure how I can diagnose if they are blown or not. 30AMP main fuse also not blown. Ground doesn't seem loose, and I'm really all out of ideas at this moment. and this is when I decide to push her back a couple mines back to my apt. I really don't know where to go from here.. or even how to diagnose this. Ugh frustrating isn't even the start of what I'm feeling right now. Maybe it's time to push her to the dealership?
OH YEAH! I was able to get the bike back to the run position once, and was able to check if any new codes popped up (I cleared them all last Friday) strangely this time around there were no new codes, not sure if that helps. The bike no longer responds in the run position so I can't get any more codes.
EDIT: alright I just took the battery out and put it back in, checked the fuses again... none blown. The digits turning off occurs when I hit the rear brake also so I unplugged the lights in the back no more turning off. But it didn't make sense that none of the lights were still off when it was on accessory mode, so I checked the fuses with a multimeter (not sure if I was doing this right, but I set it to 12v, touched the positive battery then touched each of the fuses with the black cable.)
All of the fuses came back reading ~10.00 EXCEPT for 3 based on this diagram fuses 1, 5, and 6 came back around ~1.00 or less

1. ECM fuse
2. Accessory Fuse
3. Battery Fuse

Does this mean I need a new fuse box?





Last week:



Ugh alright so the past couple of weeks I've had a problem with my bike just randomly shutting whiling riding and stopped. I took in a few troubleshooting ideas and went to work last Friday. Basically took apart the whole throttle set up, air filter, and checked the TPS. Which looked fine. Cleaned and tightened the battery connections, ground is good and didnt appear to have been loose. I also thought I might have clipped one of the wires on the throttle controls when I original bled the brakes/adjusted the throttles so I toyed with that a bit. Finally put everything back together and road every day since then (a week) without a hiccup until this morning.. (My bike just doesn't like Fridays I guess)
I walk out to my bike, gear up and turn it on let it run for about 30 secs, its EFI and pretty warm around here in the morning ~65 F. Ride down the street, then shuts off when stopping at a light (probably 300 feet from where I parked. Turn it off and on (thanks IT) start it up again, take a right, and while going 20 mph under an overpass turns off again, this time I'm able to coast about halfway back up the hill.
Now this is where it gets weird, turn the bike on and off, the speedometer digits reappear, EVERY TIME I pull in the front brake the speedometer shuts off. The digits reappear when I turn it to accessory mode, but every time I turn it back to on and pull the brake it shuts off. So after about 15-20 of this, I finally get off and roll it up the hill the rest of the way. Once at the top I try again, bike turns on, pull in brake no problem, and starts right up. Here I take a couple more rights and decide to park it before work. So... Does this rule out TPS? Any idea how the brake can trigger the bike to shut off? Which kind of makes sense since it such off while braking at a stop light.


First week:

Alright so on Wednesday I posted this:

http://filmot.org/VlLJTSf[2]Yesterday (Thursday) I road her to work, going out after work, and home (~40mi) just fine, nothing out of the ordinary. Figured I was in the clear and it was just some freaky coincidence the day before
Now today (Friday), start it up about 2-3 miles into my 10 mile trip to work, I'm in bumper to bumper traffic, in neutral at a red light just waiting and the bike completely dies similar to what happened Wednesday just this time I wasn't even touching anything or even in motion. I wobble the bike to the median/sidewalk since it doesn't restart back up like the other times. turn the key a couple times and then the thing lights up again, and starts back up. About 1/4 mile from that spot, filtering down to another red light in traffic and dies completely again. Wobble off to the side. Restart dies right there. Restart again and I am able to make it the rest of the 7 miles or so to work without a hiccup. Really don't know what to do from here, someone in another thread mentioned the throttle position sensor? I'll be looking at that this weekend, any ideas what else I can do to trouble shoot?

 

FWIW, I had about 80% of these symptoms and turned out to be a bad battery. That was after I replaced the voltage regulator, circuit breakers, build a diagnostic light and learned to pull codes. All the codes were red herrings - i.e. low voltage caused spark problems...

I'm lucky to just over a year on a battery. This is on a number of bikes and with HD and other batteries. Bikes are on name brand battery tenders when not riding.

 

Sounds like you need a mechanic. Someone who can diagnose what the issue is. I assume you are working on it in the street as it says you are in NYC...

 

I literally just bought a battery from the dealership this past March/April (2015) Anyway to test if the battery is good? my multimeter is telling me it's good, when the problems first arose I was getting 12.7 reading then your typical ~14 when it was on. Earlier today when I pulled the battery again I was getting steady ~12.65 and this is after having the bike on for a while diagnosing the problem and pushing it home

 

Yeah =( a mechanic isn't quite in my budget considering I'd have to get a tow to the shop and can't really quite afford $100/hr at the moment

 

Wish I could help but sounds like somebody has been modding the bike that f**ked up some wiring. Does it have internally wired handlebars? Bad ground somewhere. Bad ECM. Anyways you need to watch some YouTube videos on how to use a multimeter. Testing a fuse you use the continuity setting and touch both ends of the fuse. You can test relays with a multimeter but I don't have time to type that all out. And testing a battery requires a load test. Anyways sounds like you are learning a lot and on the right track. Keep it up and you will know the bike inside and out. Nothing more frustrating than breaking down.

 

You need to have the battery load tested, not just lay a meter across it. Most any auto parts store should do it free.

 

Thanks I'm trying... To be honest, I got the bike last year it appears to be bone stock with a few bolt on exceptions, exhaust and drag bars. Road perfectly through the 5k service and just up until recently. (well full disclosure there was one hiccup last summer but it was a loose battery ground)

As for using continuity is it any different than just visually looking at the fuse? could something not have continuity and look fine? The only reason I question it is because I tested the fuse box with the multimeter and got the same readings as if the fuses were in them. Also I switched out the fuses in the low spots with the ones in the normal spots.

 

I guess that can be my next step, only reason I wasn't questioning the battery is it was directly from HD, and just a couple months old. but I guess I could have gotten a dud. But on the same note, even with a very low battery or one that isn't good under load shouldn't my lights be on? Prior to buying this new battery, my old battery was definitely done, but it still lit up the lights. I guess I'm just looking for other troubleshooting areas besides the battery and fuses (not fuse box)

 

Fuses are cheap, just replace them. Any auto parts store, don't have to be Harley..