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Small fork extension this winter

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  #71  
Old 12-05-2016, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by WVDevil
Biggest issue now looks to be the lower bushing, its tight on the old tubes. Hope it has some spring to it to get on the new tubes.
Are you referring to the ones that are split? as this pic shows ?

 
  #72  
Old 12-05-2016, 08:37 PM
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Jiffy stand penny trick. I used washers. Who has a change jar anymore?
https://www.google.com/search?q=kick...ng+penny+trick

Why re-use the lower bushings? Do you plan on having the front-end apart, again, soon? Get new innerds. There is some springy-ness to the bushings. You can pry them with a screwdriver, using a twist, not a pry-action, to spread the bushings. If you're real particular, you could hammer a piece of Copper tubing flat to use as a prying/spreading device. Copper is soft. I've always simply used new innerds.
 

Last edited by HarleyScuba; 12-05-2016 at 08:46 PM. Reason: nunya
  #73  
Old 12-05-2016, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by HarleyScuba
Jiffy stand penny trick. I used washers. Who has a change jar anymore?
https://www.google.com/search?q=kick...ng+penny+trick

Why re-use the lower bushings? Do you plan on having the front-end apart, again, soon? Get new innerds. There is some springy-ness to the bushings. You can pry them with a screwdriver, using a twist, not a pry-action, to spread the bushings. If you're real particular, you could hammer a piece of Copper tubing flat to use as a prying/spreading device. Copper is soft. I've always simply used new innerds.
Yes, meant getting a new one on. Just gently spread I expect?
 
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Old 12-05-2016, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by WKNDS
Are you referring to the ones that are split? as this pic shows ?

Yes, those
 
  #75  
Old 12-08-2016, 06:50 PM
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Parts are finally shipping; be here Tuesday.
 
  #76  
Old 12-10-2016, 07:56 AM
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Believe my PVC spacers will be wrong with spring/damper swap. Needs to stick out 3/4" before capping, right?
 
  #77  
Old 12-11-2016, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by WVDevil
Believe my PVC spacers will be wrong with spring/damper swap. Needs to stick out 3/4" before capping, right?
Sometimes it is that easy, other times not so much.

You want to get the sag between 25%-33% with you sitting on the bike.

Start out with 3/4" of the spacer sticking out, then adjust the PVC length from there, as needed.
 
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  #78  
Old 12-11-2016, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by DK Custom
Sometimes it is that easy, other times not so much.

You want to get the sag between 25%-33% with you sitting on the bike.

Start out with 3/4" of the spacer sticking out, then adjust the PVC length from there, as needed.
Sag is measured with weight off the bike vs weight sitting on the bike or with front wheel lifted vs sitting on the bike?

Shorter spacer = more "bounce', right? Shorter spacer increases or decreases sag?
 

Last edited by WVDevil; 12-11-2016 at 11:49 AM.
  #79  
Old 12-11-2016, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by WVDevil
Sag is measured with weight off the bike vs weight sitting on the bike or with front wheel lifted vs sitting on the bike?

Shorter spacer = more "bounce', right? Shorter spacer increases or decreases sag?
Shorter spacer increases sag.

More sag there is, more likely to bottom out. Also will feel spongy/wallow.

To little sag and when you hit a bump the tire is likely to leave the ground briefly (not good).

HERE is an informative Report on front suspension. It is TWO parts, make sure to read the 2nd Part.

They way I measure sag is as follows:

Determine how much total travel is available. ie. 3"

25% of 3" is 3/4", 33% of 3" is 1". So the sag should be between 3/4-1"

Sit on the bike. Measure how much the front suspension "sagged" from the combined weight of the bike and yourself. It should be 3/4-1" (if you started with 3" of total available travel).

If it is less than 3/4", you will need to shorten your PVC spacer. If it is more than 1", you will need to lengthen your PVC spacer.
 
  #80  
Old 12-12-2016, 10:37 AM
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Does 4 over automatically equal 4" longer brake lines etc? Or is it not that direct of a correlation?
 


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