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Sportster Models 883, 883 Custom, 1200 Custom, 883L, 1200L, 1200S, 1200 Roadster, XR1200, and the Nightster.
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Old 09-08-2011, 11:56 PM
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parabellum_9x19 parabellum_9x19 is offline
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Default DIY Step by Step with photos: DK coil and ignition relocate with wire tuck, no lift.

This came out of another thread of mine, but it was not optimally titled to be found in a search.

I'm just going to dump this all here for anyone looking for a step by step for how to use the DK coil and Flex 6 ignition relocation, as well as a wire tuck WITHOUT lifting their tank.

Also: The DK products kits are amazing and I'm very glad that I bought them. Sure I could easily have fabricated the parts myself, but I'm getting to the point in my bike modding career where I no longer feel I need to re-invent the wheel.

I did the coil and ignition relocate, and hid the wires without lifting the tank.

However: Anyone who says you can get the wires up in there between the frame rail and the tank without a lift is smoking some serious stuff. Its impossible. Those deutch connectors are HUGE and there is absolutely no way on god's earth that you will get them above the frame rail without a lift. But...as I discovered, you don't need to! You can bundle them up and hide them right where they sit on the bottom of the frame rail...and now I'm going to show you a step by step on how.

I took about 30 pictures and I'll try to post them here, step by step.

First, supplies laid out, and all the tools you will need:

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Right side of the bike in its stock form:

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Left side of the bike in its stock form:

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Step 1: Pull the main fuse under the battery cover.

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Step 2: Disconnect the fuel petcock (its a quick disconnect, push up on the sleeve and it pops out, only a few drops of fuel will leak out, catch it with a rag).

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Step 3: Prop up the tank with a block of soft wood

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Step 4: Cut off the zip ties and remove the left side plastic wire housing

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Step 5: Cut off the zip ties and remove the right side wire housing

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Step 6: Unbolt the ignition from the mounting bracket and move it to the left side of the bike, wrap the red wires now before you mount it

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Step 7: Mount the DK bracket to the primary case ground bolt, you will need a LOOOONG ratchet extension to access the nut from the other side of the bike

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Step 8: Mount the ignition to the DK bracket, run the wrapped ignition wires up the side, as far from the rear cylinder wall as possible, zip tie-ing it as you go.

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Step 9: Remove the coil mounting bracket, unbolt the coils from it, marking the coil pack to ensure you know which side goes to which cylinder. Unplug the spark plug wires, then unplug the connection from the wiring harness to the coil pack and let it dangle in between the two cylinders. Now is a good time to wrap it with black tape.

Click the image to open in full size.

Step 10: Mount the coils to the DK bracket, plug the wiring harness back into the coil pack, plug the NEW Screamin Eagle spark plug wires (that come with the DK kit) into the coil pack, mount the coil pack to the cylinders, and then reconnect the spark plugs.

Click the image to open in full size.

Step 11: Here is where I got excited and forgot to take some pictures. For this next step you will do the following:

11a: Wrap all brightly colored wire bundles with black tape.

11b: Zip tie the bundles to the bottom of the frame rail LOOSELY, each time, lowering the tank to check the fit. If the tank drops into place, tighten the zip tie, prop up the tank again, and repeat.

11c: Double check the tank fit with the now tight and secure zip ties.

11d: Wrap the entire bundle in black tape from the rear of the frame rail where the seat bolts on, to the front of the steering head, making sure to cover all the wires and connectors. Work from both sides and take your time!!!

When you get done, you can drop the tank back down and it should look like this....

(continued in the next post....)
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Last edited by parabellum_9x19; 09-08-2011 at 11:59 PM.. Reason: fixed typo
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Old 09-08-2011, 11:56 PM
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Step 12: Drop the tank into place and check how it looks from all sides. Now is a good time to reconnect the fuel petcock, then the main fuse, and test all controls (turn signals, headlight, bright headlight, horn, run switch, and start switch) and start the bike to ensure you didn't screw anything up.

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A few shots from underneath looking up, to show you the wires...you can't see them at ALL unless you kneel down under the tank:

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Seat back on, did the final double check, started the bike, and ran it until it warmed up to ensure nothing caught fire or exploded....

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And that is it, you are done, go ride and enjoy it!!!!

(and please excuse my messy garage/workshop, it currently looks like a tornado hit it, I'm in the process of totally re-arranging it)

Total time: 2.5 hours
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Last edited by parabellum_9x19; 09-09-2011 at 12:04 AM..
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Old 09-09-2011, 12:14 AM
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Hey DK: Feel free to use any and all of these photos or this entire writeup on your website, promotional literature, etc...
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Old 09-09-2011, 12:30 AM
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Nice write up and good job. You forgot one stat at the very end:

Total time to organize tools, take photos, and post all steps in an organized fashion on HD Forums: 3 hours
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Old 09-09-2011, 12:41 AM
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LOL yeah, I had to upload the photos to my PC, batch resize them, rotate a few, delete the ones I didn't want, batch upload them to imgur.com and then post it all.

That overhead added at least 45 minutes.

I left the tools out, because I'm doing another job soon: Installing a custom front braided steel brake line and then adding riser blocks.
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:32 AM
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Nice write up man, please dont take this the wrong way but this pic.............wow............your more **** than I am Oh, and your 3/8 ratchet is not perfectly aligned with your screwdrivers


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Old 09-09-2011, 08:35 AM
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Did you end up using the hockey stick tape or regular electrical tape? I dont want everything to be a sticky mess if I ever need to get into it. Im a retired aircraft electrician, I always used F4 tape but I think it only comes in orange.
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Last edited by Rog48; 09-09-2011 at 08:37 AM..
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:40 AM
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Im wrong............found some in black. This stuff is 100 times better than any electrical tape, it has no glue, only sticks to itself and comes off easy with no mess.
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:21 AM
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Looks good, glad it worked like you wanted.
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Old 09-09-2011, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rog48 View Post
Im wrong............found some in black. This stuff is 100 times better than any electrical tape, it has no glue, only sticks to itself and comes off easy with no mess.
I backed out on the hockey tape for now because I wasn't sure if I was going to like it this way, so I used electrical tape with the idea that I might pull it back off and lift the tank anyway.

Now that I've settled on keeping it this way, I'll probably buy that tape you suggested and replace it before the black electrical tape loses its adhesive and I have to spend an hour with rubbing alcohol removing it from the wires and the frame.

Its out of stock at the link you posted, its in stock here:

http://www.amazon.com/RESCUE-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Tape-BLACK/dp/B000ZTK6CI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1315578528&sr=1-1

But I hear its carried at Harbor Freight, so I'm going to try to get some later today.
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Last edited by parabellum_9x19; 09-09-2011 at 10:29 AM..
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Old 09-09-2011, 10:27 AM
 
 
 
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