HELP trying to remove baffle/silencer
#11
#12
Size... I don't know, mine were already done when I bought the bike, I'm guessing a 1" hole saw... whatever fits in the pipe without getting jammed in there. It is only a thick sheet metal plug, less than 1/8 inch so it will go quick and easy. You will need some kind of extension, the plug is roughly half way inside the muffler.
BTW, the stock baffles are NOT removable like the SE or aftermarket with a bolt. If you want to remove them, they must be cut out with an 1 3/4" hole saw.
The exhaust flange nuts need to be tightened to 10 ft/lbs (120 inch/lbs) check them after every ride, they do come loose and fall off. Ask me how I know!
Last edited by John_K; 10-10-2011 at 10:49 PM. Reason: 1 3/4" hole saw
#13
Remove the slip-ons: two bolts underneath, the big 'pipe' clamp, the support bracket on the rear pipe and at least loosen the exhaust flange nuts at the head so you can pull the mufflers out of the cross tube connections. I'm sure it can be done with the mufflers on, just make sure the plug comes out with the hole saw.
Size... I don't know, mine were already done when I bought the bike, I'm guessing a 1" hole saw... whatever fits in the pipe without getting jammed in there. It is only a thick sheet metal plug, less than 1/8 inch so it will go quick and easy. You will need some kind of extension, the plug is roughly half way inside the muffler.
BTW, the stock baffles are NOT removable like the SE or aftermarket with a bolt. If you want to remove them, they must be cut out with an 1 3/4" hole saw.
The exhaust flange nuts need to be tightened to 10 ft/lbs (120 inch/lbs) check them after every ride, they do come loose and fall off. Ask me how I know!
Size... I don't know, mine were already done when I bought the bike, I'm guessing a 1" hole saw... whatever fits in the pipe without getting jammed in there. It is only a thick sheet metal plug, less than 1/8 inch so it will go quick and easy. You will need some kind of extension, the plug is roughly half way inside the muffler.
BTW, the stock baffles are NOT removable like the SE or aftermarket with a bolt. If you want to remove them, they must be cut out with an 1 3/4" hole saw.
The exhaust flange nuts need to be tightened to 10 ft/lbs (120 inch/lbs) check them after every ride, they do come loose and fall off. Ask me how I know!
so if its stock which it is ill need 1 3/4in hole saw?
#14
Pull tape to the baffle. Get you a long 5/16 or 3/8 drill from Lowes and drill one or two holes thru it and try it. Do not just rip it all out. Does not take much. Rip it all out and it sounds like crap and you will loose your bottom end and engine braking. Couple 5/16 hole will give you a raspy rattle high life cam sound. Softtail needs 14" long twist drill and there is only one plate in center. You can always drill more. Can not undrill it.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 10-10-2011 at 10:56 PM.
#15
The 1 3/4" hole saw will cut out the entire baffle. That is handy if you want to open up the existing baffle holes without removing the plug. Then the baffles are welded back in place. That is one popular mod if you are looking to improve sound without losing bottom end performance. Drilling out the plug is easier, creates louder sound, and does not take away too much from the bottom end. This is done with a 1" hole saw, or smaller.
The SE baffles are partially plugged to maintain that low rpm torque.
The SE baffles are partially plugged to maintain that low rpm torque.
#18
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