Clutch/Brake lever replacement.
#11
04-20-2012, 09:41 PM
Road Master
Stand in front of the bike, then push the brake lever in. As it pivots there will be a gap at the right side of the lever, near that pivot pin. That's where the cardboard goes. I like to use a zip tie, folded over to double thickness. Jamming the tie or cardboard acts to keep the lever like it's pulled in slightly, enough to clear the switch as you take it off and on.
Last edited by edgeofinsanity; 04-20-2012 at 09:47 PM.
#12
04-21-2012, 06:16 AM
#14
04-27-2012, 12:31 PM
The switch is in between the throttle control housing, and the brake lever, it looks like a pin. When you pull your brake lever, the "pin" comes out, but if you remove the lever and try to put it back on with the pin still out, it could/will break that switch.
Stand in front of the bike, then push the brake lever in. As it pivots there will be a gap at the right side of the lever, near that pivot pin. That's where the cardboard goes. I like to use a zip tie, folded over to double thickness. Jamming the tie or cardboard acts to keep the lever like it's pulled in slightly, enough to clear the switch as you take it off and on.
Stand in front of the bike, then push the brake lever in. As it pivots there will be a gap at the right side of the lever, near that pivot pin. That's where the cardboard goes. I like to use a zip tie, folded over to double thickness. Jamming the tie or cardboard acts to keep the lever like it's pulled in slightly, enough to clear the switch as you take it off and on.
#15
04-27-2012, 02:50 PM
The switch is in between the throttle control housing, and the brake lever, it looks like a pin. When you pull your brake lever, the "pin" comes out, but if you remove the lever and try to put it back on with the pin still out, it could/will break that switch.
Stand in front of the bike, then push the brake lever in. As it pivots there will be a gap at the right side of the lever, near that pivot pin. That's where the cardboard goes. I like to use a zip tie, folded over to double thickness. Jamming the tie or cardboard acts to keep the lever like it's pulled in slightly, enough to clear the switch as you take it off and on.
Stand in front of the bike, then push the brake lever in. As it pivots there will be a gap at the right side of the lever, near that pivot pin. That's where the cardboard goes. I like to use a zip tie, folded over to double thickness. Jamming the tie or cardboard acts to keep the lever like it's pulled in slightly, enough to clear the switch as you take it off and on.
Thank you for the help i spotted the switch and i did as you said with the cardboard spacer but then i loosened the brake lever/brake fluid resivour bolts and slid the assembly away from the switch housing then i was able too replace the lever and move it back into place without damaging the switch took like 3 minutes too complete . thank you again for the input it gave me the confidence boost to tackle this job and not muck it up. looks really nice with the new chrome levers .
#16
01-06-2013, 03:21 PM
Like already posted, clutch lever is easy. I rerouted my clutch cable due to installing higher bars, and took the lever off so I could just run it through the front forks, rather than remove the headlight. From what I remember:
For the clutch side, you'll need a snap ring tool, or some small needlenose pliers and a new snap ring. Start by sliding up the rubber cover on the clutch cable, near the frame, it should be clipped to the frame with some wires. Loosen the locknut under the cover and adjust the cable putting in as much slack as you can. The lever is attached to the controls with a pin, which has that snapring on the underside. Remove that snapring, and the pin comes out, then just pull your loosened cable through the control housing. There is a small black "clip" looking thing on the underside of the clutch lever, it's there so the lever doesn't vibrate. Take it off (single black phillips head screw) and put it on the new lever. Attach the cable to the new lever and put it back together, then readjust the clutch cable (1/16" to 1/8" slack at the lever).
Not sure on the brake side.
For the clutch side, you'll need a snap ring tool, or some small needlenose pliers and a new snap ring. Start by sliding up the rubber cover on the clutch cable, near the frame, it should be clipped to the frame with some wires. Loosen the locknut under the cover and adjust the cable putting in as much slack as you can. The lever is attached to the controls with a pin, which has that snapring on the underside. Remove that snapring, and the pin comes out, then just pull your loosened cable through the control housing. There is a small black "clip" looking thing on the underside of the clutch lever, it's there so the lever doesn't vibrate. Take it off (single black phillips head screw) and put it on the new lever. Attach the cable to the new lever and put it back together, then readjust the clutch cable (1/16" to 1/8" slack at the lever).
Not sure on the brake side.
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Bill G
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