Cant seem to decided which fairing to put on. Hopefully some of you fellas can help me out. Pros and cons on the following fairings, Conely's Accessories Retro Quarter Fairing, Arlen Ness Bolt On Fairing or the Memphis Shades Gauntlet Fairing? Anyone running any of these? Thanks for any advice yo can give.

 

I love my Memphis Shades Gauntlet. Takes the wind off your chest, protects the tank from rock chips and overall looks bad ***

 

 

Seeing how few posts have replied to your question i assume that sportsters with fairings are not too popular. I like them...usually. It beats having a bulky windshield and adds a very unique style.

I dont like the HD visor or whoever has that 883 iron above. It is way too "Sons of Anarchy".

The retro qtr fairing is cool but the arlen ness is clean. I'm afraid the retro will come out looking like a cafe cruiser. my two cents.

The gauntlet is pretty slick too.

 

I think the Memphis looks best on 48s with that big tire. For the thinner fronts I like the look of the ness.

Dont make the same mistake I did. I ordered the cheap $200 kit from JP thinking itd work. turned out I had to switch and get the $350 kit and return the other because the cheaper kit mounted to close to the bars. Hitting just about every cable without being cut.

The pricier kit relocates your headlight about 3 inches forward. Comes with all the wiring and hardware.

 

Who gives a **** about that goddamn show?

If he likes the fairing, he should consider it without people bringing up that show.

I'm sick to death of hearing about it.

 

Part No./Model No.?

I am getting ready to order the same one as elfnyc for my 48... I like that look...

 

Agreed. I love soa, but I've loved and wanted a bike since i was a little kid thanks to my dad. However, since I've gotten my bike I have noticed little things that, yes mimic the soa styling. But it makes a huge difference in the quality of my bike. The fairing, drag bars with risers and forward controls. Huge improvements in ride quality.

Also to the OP if you were wondering. I haven't run into any problems with headlight relocation. I was concerned that having the light that much farther out may make cornering at night a little harder to see. But it didn't, and also didn't make the headlight vibrate anymore than normal. Mines nice and smooth. just fyi

 

sorry guys i forgot i posted here lol ---- its not the HD one --- its the ebay version
45$ or something ike that
to get the paint to match - i used a matte clear coat over the fairing
i didnt paint it a matte black, theres no need to ,
i just used the matte clear coat and it will match perfect

no longer have it - i went in another direction -- but im a short guy , that little fairing helped out alot with the wind .....
even though it looks like it would do nothing ! for me it took the wind off my chest and put it near my 4head

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sportster-Fa...5f9f3e&vxp=mtr

 

arlen ness part number, 06-037 jp part number is 690-779.

the copy of the instructions they send is in terrible shape. http://www.jpcycles.com/instructions/pdf/690-779.pdf heres a pdf of a color one thats ledgable.

This should only take like 45 minutes max..

Also I used medical paper tape on the insides of the fork brackets (sticky side facing the bracket, not the fork.) That will allow you to move the fairing up or down without scratching the forks while your centering it around the headlight. Also they advise you use tie-wraps to hold the brackets in place while affixing the fairing to them, Dont, its much easier and less frustrating to just hold them in place and one by one screw them on. The brackets shift as you tighten then causing the tie-wraps to a fall off and then you have to start over. And torquing down the lower bracket bolts was a little tricky because with the fairing on, theres not much space to get tools in there. I took my bars and speedo off to do the headlight relocating portion of this, which made accessing the headlight bolts much easier with my limited hand tools.

The instructions say to remove the whole tank, thats totally unnecessary. Just loose the back tank bolts and remove the front bolt. You can tilt the tank back and prop it up with a small piece of wood/tool bag whatever and it gives you plenty of room to access the wiring harness.