What else needed with WO575 handle bars?
#1
What else needed with WO575 handle bars?
Not trying to be a thread ***** (I apologize to the moderators) but I just posted this in the CVO forum and realized I would probably get more interest in the touring forum and I do not know how to move a thread or even if it is possible? So here is the situation.
I have decided part of my uncomfortable riding position is due to my lack of stature. Simply put, I am just vertically challenged at 5'7" and a half! Had to put that half in there. So, I recently ordered a mustang seat for touring comfort, and I want to get some handlebars that I don't have to lean forward to get hold of. I have read nearly every post regarding the Ergo back bars, and the WO575 by Wild 1. From looking at pictures, and comments, it looks like the ergo is out. It doesn't make enough difference from what I can see, however the Wild 1 WO575 bars look like they will work, though I will probably pull them back a bit more than most pics I have seen. If ANYONE has any other suggestions, please post them here. I am open to ALL ideas (except ape bars). I don't want any added height if possible. With that said, can anyone tell me what I will have to buy along with the bars, to complete the install? I wish to keep my hydraulic clutch line through the fairing and keep everything looking as original as possible. So do I need longer braided brake lines? Throttle cable? wiring? Where did you all get yours? My bike is the one in my signature. 2005 Screamin Eagle Electra glide. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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I have decided part of my uncomfortable riding position is due to my lack of stature. Simply put, I am just vertically challenged at 5'7" and a half! Had to put that half in there. So, I recently ordered a mustang seat for touring comfort, and I want to get some handlebars that I don't have to lean forward to get hold of. I have read nearly every post regarding the Ergo back bars, and the WO575 by Wild 1. From looking at pictures, and comments, it looks like the ergo is out. It doesn't make enough difference from what I can see, however the Wild 1 WO575 bars look like they will work, though I will probably pull them back a bit more than most pics I have seen. If ANYONE has any other suggestions, please post them here. I am open to ALL ideas (except ape bars). I don't want any added height if possible. With that said, can anyone tell me what I will have to buy along with the bars, to complete the install? I wish to keep my hydraulic clutch line through the fairing and keep everything looking as original as possible. So do I need longer braided brake lines? Throttle cable? wiring? Where did you all get yours? My bike is the one in my signature. 2005 Screamin Eagle Electra glide. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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#3
I run them on my bike and I've installed a few other sets over the years. Fortunately, I have not yet had to extend the wires on any of them. Each time, I was able to remove the pins from the connectors, pull the wires, then reassemble the connectors. The only down-side is that the connectors can't stay clipped to the little "stays" or whatever you would call them. They have to move closer to where the wires exit the bottom of the bars.
For pulling the wires, I use heavy twine that is first sucked through the bars with the Shop Vac. This works really quickly and easily.
For the brake line, you only need to extend the upper section that runs from the master cylinder to the junction block. I can't remember for sure but I think I may have gone +2" on mine. +4" definitely works.
On the throttle and idle cables, +4" works very well.
When I did the first set (mine) the tech guy at WildOne said either +4" or +6" would work for the clutch cable. I always did +4" but thought it could be a little longer. I recently replaced my clutch cable and decided to try +6". It's maybe just a touch too long, but I do like it better as it is much easier to adjust with the added room in the cable. If anyone made a +5" that would be perfect, imo.
For pulling the wires, I use heavy twine that is first sucked through the bars with the Shop Vac. This works really quickly and easily.
For the brake line, you only need to extend the upper section that runs from the master cylinder to the junction block. I can't remember for sure but I think I may have gone +2" on mine. +4" definitely works.
On the throttle and idle cables, +4" works very well.
When I did the first set (mine) the tech guy at WildOne said either +4" or +6" would work for the clutch cable. I always did +4" but thought it could be a little longer. I recently replaced my clutch cable and decided to try +6". It's maybe just a touch too long, but I do like it better as it is much easier to adjust with the added room in the cable. If anyone made a +5" that would be perfect, imo.
#4
#5
I run them on my bike and I've installed a few other sets over the years. Fortunately, I have not yet had to extend the wires on any of them. Each time, I was able to remove the pins from the connectors, pull the wires, then reassemble the connectors. The only down-side is that the connectors can't stay clipped to the little "stays" or whatever you would call them. They have to move closer to where the wires exit the bottom of the bars.
For pulling the wires, I use heavy twine that is first sucked through the bars with the Shop Vac. This works really quickly and easily.
For the brake line, you only need to extend the upper section that runs from the master cylinder to the junction block. I can't remember for sure but I think I may have gone +2" on mine. +4" definitely works.
On the throttle and idle cables, +4" works very well.
When I did the first set (mine) the tech guy at WildOne said either +4" or +6" would work for the clutch cable. I always did +4" but thought it could be a little longer. I recently replaced my clutch cable and decided to try +6". It's maybe just a touch too long, but I do like it better as it is much easier to adjust with the added room in the cable. If anyone made a +5" that would be perfect, imo.
For pulling the wires, I use heavy twine that is first sucked through the bars with the Shop Vac. This works really quickly and easily.
For the brake line, you only need to extend the upper section that runs from the master cylinder to the junction block. I can't remember for sure but I think I may have gone +2" on mine. +4" definitely works.
On the throttle and idle cables, +4" works very well.
When I did the first set (mine) the tech guy at WildOne said either +4" or +6" would work for the clutch cable. I always did +4" but thought it could be a little longer. I recently replaced my clutch cable and decided to try +6". It's maybe just a touch too long, but I do like it better as it is much easier to adjust with the added room in the cable. If anyone made a +5" that would be perfect, imo.
#7
I put the WO575s on my 2005 Ultra several years ago, and initially kept the stock wires, throttle cables and brake line. The clutch cable had to stay outside of the fairing, and the front brake line had to be bent a little, but the stock stuff will work. I have since had +4 braided cables installed. The WO575 bars are MUCH more comfortable than stock. The bars are probably the single best mod I have done.
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#8
Well I decided to not do the WO575 bars because some of the threads where riders were short, like me, said the additional width ate up much of what they gained in pull back. I found Khrome Werks has a new bar that is the same bar as the +2 wide stretch but now it is made in a Narrow version. I cannot find any threads on it, but I went to Khrome Werks site and looked at the specs, barely over stock width and says 2.75 inches more pullback on the 2014 bikes, but mine is 2005 so I am betting it is more of the 2 inch gain, but that is perfect for me. Ordered all new cables and hydraulic clutch and brake upper line. +4 on everything to be safe. At least I hope my hydraulic clutch line is +4 as I couldn't find for certain, the stock clutch line length. I used several sources that mentioned 67 inches on CVO stock electra glide on ebay. So I think I might have went +5 on that. I can burry a little extra length in the fairing. Got the bars yesterday, cables and lines show shipped, and I will try to get this done sometime in the next month, maybe..lol. Finally got my mustang seat and new backrest system done. So I have done tons of stuff over the last month, and I think I am going to quit after the bars and cables. I cannot think of anything left to upgrade! So don't give me any ideas!
#9
Installed on 07 UC few thousands miles ago absolutely best $200 spent didn't need any thing to extend just have to reroute and move wires around and zip tie them again. Brake line was giving me hard time but few bends with bare hands solve that issue keep in mind with these bars you must run hand controls wiring internally cause there is no dent on the bottom like stock bars to fit wires under brake and clutch mounts.