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Voltage Regulator or Just Ride?

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Old 07-23-2015, 10:27 AM
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Default Voltage Regulator or Just Ride?

05 Ultra Stage 1, 37K miles.
I know how "accurate" the MoCo gauges are....

First, I have no issues starting the bike hot or cold. Once warmed up and idling in traffic, I stop with one foot down, right foot on the rear brake.
Voltage drops to 13.1 or so on the gauge. Foot off OR hand off the brakes at a stop, back up over 14.
I checked with a volt meter and the MoCo gauge is about .2 volts or so low, so it's within the ball park.

It is possible I never noticed this before, but it's about a 1V drop total warmed up at a stop sign/light with my foot on the brake.
When the bike is cold or just warming up, it's above 14 no matter what.

I know extreme heat and cold are electrical systems worst enemies.
Is this normal, do I have a battery and/or voltage regulator or even a stator starting to go?
To date, no warning/dummy lights on, again..bike starts and run just fine cruising the streets or on the super slab.

I appreciate the advise.
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:15 AM
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I would look into a new regulator, the voltage should not change that drastically
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:16 AM
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What does the volt meter read when first started up in the garage? What does the volt meter read when you rev it up as well in the garage? Also you're checking these with an external meter, right? Not the dash mounted one.

Any accessories. on the battery? (amps, heated gear, etc?)
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by sbeast
I would look into a new regulator, the voltage should not change that drastically
Who knows, the gauge in the dash is junk. If he's got a lot of accessories it may. Best bet is to perform the tests noted in the electrical section to determine the root cause. If any.
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:50 AM
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Default Voltage Regulator or Just Ride?

For 52,000 miles, when hot, at idle with brake light on, spots on, radio on, fairing voltmeter will drop to 13 ish. Hand / foot off brake will climb back up.
My personal experience with bad regulators, every time the meter spikes (16+ volts).
The regulator's job is to convert AC to DC and regulate the voltage - the regulator cannot increase volts if the stator isn't putting it out.
A meter reading low may be the stator, a meter reading high probably the regulator. That has been my experience but one should always perform proper test procedures. Assuming a good battery of course, which should be tested first.
 

Last edited by Weavr99FLHT; 07-23-2015 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:58 AM
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Thanks for the tips guys.
I really noticed yesterday and the day before. Got to a friends house, borrowed his volt meter...and had a "Soda Pop". Hour or so later went to test it at the battery, it cooled down enough that it stayed above 14V.
When I get home from work today, I'll check it at the battery to test for drop.
I know better than to put 100% faith in the MoCo gauges. But I'm not foolish enough to ignore them, either... Well, maybe the ambient air temp gauge...

I always have spots on and usually the radio on as well. I can't tell you the last time I put the high beams on...
I do have an extra light bar across the bottom of the tourpak for brake lights, other than that...that's it.
Other than that brake light bar, everything from radio to speakers is 100% factory stock.

As said, until fully heated up, it's 14 to 14.5ish on the dash gauge.
When I tested it cold(er) with my friends meter, it was above 14 the whole time and the gauge was only .2 V or so off from the meter. I blip the throttle/take off, it's back to normal.

I've had the bike a year. I'm going to assume being 10 years old the battery has been replaced once. I keep it in the bike and on a tender all winter and normally in the summer if I have a long spell of rain coming. I've never had an issue with starting or cranking the bike. It has always fired right up.
But I agree, it's in my best interest to load test the battery as well.
My goal is to stay on the road, not off to the side...

Thanks again all.
 
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