I went with the older bullet conversion kit from my 06 Road King, the one Harley says will only fit up to 2013, on my 15 Road King. I did have to adapt the wire ends to socket terminals so they would match the connector used on the 15. I also re-routed the wiring to go behind the forks and into the nacelle from there, instead of the factory routing. I like it much better, the lights work and there are no issues regarding the Dreaded Rushmore CANBUS electrical system.

If you don't happen to have the older bullet conversion kit laying around, with the xxxxx-04 part number, you could most likely pick it up for much less than retail off the forum or ebay.

 

I put a 14 SG rear assy on my 14 RK, If you get the whole assy with the wire harness and everything, it is plug and play. I got the whole assy minus the wire harness that runs from front of fender to the lights and had to order one for a 14 SG. Caution: first one they ordered wrong, they ordered on for international model.

 

That is exactly what I am looking for. So I am looking for a bullet conversion kit from older than what year? From what I can see it looks identical to a SG with passing lights and it still allows for the windscreen to be quick detached.

 

Pick away. You can do it the way Magnut did and remove the taillight and integrate everything into the turn signals using a modern light bar, or get a light bar from an earlier model that has the taillight as well. the wiring is very simple once you start pulling it apart. The bar I picked up didn't have plugs so I had to cut my stock ones off.

 

I figured I should show the difference between mine and Magnuts rear.

 

So you need what they call the Auxiliary Lighting Bracket kit, # 69227-04A that fits "up to 2013", and the bullet turn signal kit # 69228-04. I also used some chrome 1/4" washers as shims between the bracket and side of the nacelle where it attaches (one shim for each of the 4 attachment points, and some 1/4" longer bolts. I did this to make sure the windshield detachment would have plenty of room to operate between the nacelle and the brackets. This also allows room to re-route the wiring behind the forks if you choose, or you could stick with the factory routing location. The wires exit the new bracket toward the rear (or toward the gas tank), so I thought it might be troublesome to force the wiring back toward the front like the stock part. Up to you!

I've seen these parts go for around $200 on classifieds and ebay, so you might have to search and bid for a few days but should be able to get them for much less than retail, which is about $400 total.