i see it now = hey doesnt make a sound when putting it into gear, ofcourse it slips like crazy, just kidding. id have to take the clutch apart and wipe everything with acetone before changing fluids. figure if im going to go through the trouble of doing that i might as well put new. i had to do this with my BDL clutch pack, clean it.

 

[QUOTE=FastHoss;15618843]Make sure you are adjusting clutch per manual. Not too much free play or it will clunk worse.[/QUOTE

What he said.

 

I put in the recommended amount of primary fluid, bottom of clutch, when I adjust the clutch it's done on a cold engine. I start the bike in the garage, hold the clutch in, duck walk out to the driveway and put it in gear. It snicks into first, no clunk. I would invest in a service manual and learn the ins and outs of servicing these machines.

 

have a service manual, and thats how i adjusted it. cold, cable adjuster in. it was, maybe 1 & 1/2 turns out, because i counted the turns in to lightly seat. it says 1/2 - 3/4, so i figure 1/2 is going to give me the most disengagement when i pull the lever. good thing i got the extended warranty. anyway ive got more disengagement than i had before, ill see tomorrow. if not then back to the dealer and he can figure it out. don't think clutch adjustment is part of maintenance seeing as ii haven't put 200 miles on it, and told him the next day it didn't feel right. i expect a click but shouldn't be able to hear it a block away.

 

if you've only got 200 miles on it (since they serviced it I presume), and it wasn't doing this before, I would absolutely ask the dealer to make it right. after all, if it is out of adjustment, then they didn't do their pre setup right.

I would also absolutely not tell them you attempted to adjust it yourself either.

 

it has 200 miles since i bought it, which was a couple of weeks ago, and i called them the next day about it. ill ride it today and see how it sounds.

 

1. loosen the clutch cable so that you have no tension on your lever (you do this by tightening it.... sounds backwards)
2. loosen the locking nut
3. tighten the adjusting screw in until it just makes contact ( like to take it in a bunch first, back it out, and then tighten it until it makes contact)
4. loosen 1/2 to 3/4 turn
5. while holding adjusting screw, tighten the locking nut down. (I use a pass through socket, and an t handle allen wrench).
6. adjust your clutch cable so that you have about 1/8'' freeplay at the lever
7. squeeze your lever 2 or 3 times to insure that you have the ***** on the ramp seated properly.
exactly how i did it.

 

i just went out and put it in 1st, pulled the clutch in and i cant move it, without the engine wanting to turn over. is that normal or does it have to be running for the clutch to break loose.

 

It sounds odd but the oil in a wet clutch acts a bit like glue when the clutch lever is pulled in. If the clutch is properly adjusted you should be able to break that glue effect free with extra effort and then push the bike. Even once the glue effect is broken, the bike is still harder to push in gear than when in neutral, you are turning more stuff. The only time I don't get the loud clunk going into first from neutral is when the bike is cold. The lube in the transmission is stiff enough to break the glue effect in the clutch and stop the driven part of the clutch. Since the input shaft to the transmission is not spinning, there is no clunk. After the lube warms up, the input shaft spins freely and won't stop the driven side of the clutch when the lever is pulled in and I get the clunk.

 

adjusted it yesterday, need to go for ride.