Sounds like you got this... Your right on with the the heat possibility. A lot of slow traffic in high heat regions can take the life out of a clutch assembly. I have never used ATF for my primary. If you use it, let's us know how it goes.
Good luck...

 

dont think ill be using it. if i did then it would be soaked into the disk. think ill go with the chain lube that is recommended.

 

With the talk of using different oils in the primary I think its time to mention that not all oils work with all clutch material.

Some wet clutch material works great with some types of ATF but may not like other types of oil.

Some clutch packs work fine with standard AW32 hydraulic oil and some like different spec oils, like John Deere tractor oil (looks like hydraulic oil but hydraulic oil will destroy the clutch material)

My point is not to say what you or someone else is using will not work, but to caution everyone about knowing what the clutch material is made of and be careful about what oil you use as you could be using the wrong spec oil and damage the clutch material

Again I am not saying what you should or should not use just reminding everyone to be careful so you do not inadvertently cause damage to your clutch pack.

 

well me adjusting it properly did the job. has a click when going into first, but not a loud clunk. ahhhhh life is good.

 

Just out of curiosity, is there some mechanical requirement that you adjust the allen bolt, other than to reposition the clutch lever freeplay?

 

well if you have to much free play in the allen then you wont be able to pull the hand lever in enough to release the clutch. mine had about 1 & 1/2 turns before i adjusted it. you have to know how the ball, *****, and ramp design works to release the clutch to know why the allen set screw free play is important.

 

The two are completely separate adjustments. If you follow the step by step sequence for adjustment from the service manual, you will better understand how they are separate.

The first step to back off the cable casing nut/ adjuster will also be your final step to set your free play at the clutch lever. That has nothing to do with your settings at the clutch basket/ allen screw.

When the cable casing nuts are backed off you have simply placed the clutch assembly in a relaxed position for adjustment by shortening the cable housing allowing the cable to relax tension. When that's done you must reset your cable casing nut adjustment to give the correct cable pull length again.

The cable casing adjust is often thought to be a clutch adjustment when it is not.

Hope that helps.

 

The cable casing adjust is often thought to be a clutch adjustment when it is not. what he said.

 

So here's why I ask. I have no clutch problems. 3/16" play measured at the lever. Engagement/disengagement happens in about the correct lever location. All that said, I've yet to adjust the clutch in the four years I've had this bike. Why should I adjust it?

 

You have never adjusted your clutch in 4 years?
Do you take the bike to the dealer for servicing? 5,000, 10,000 etc....
If yes, then I am sure they adjust it.


Mine always needs adjusting and I never ride the clutch.
When the dealer did my new handlebar install maybe they put in a garbage brand cable?