I can't believe I'm having a problem doing something as simple as bleeding the front brakes, but I am. I've got an 09 RK with a single non-ABS rotor on front. Had brakes yesterday morning. Saw that my new support connection (Goodridge) that I had mounted on the front frame had to be moved because it was interfering with my turning radius. Relocated it back to the original OEM position under the center of the forks. I had to remove the brake line in order to move it. Attached my fluid bleeder pump and drained everything until the bubbles stopped while refilling the reservoir. Tightened it up - no brakes. Fluid flows perfectly from the reservoir to the bleeder nut.

When I removed the caliper and let it hang for a few minutes, I noticed that the pads had gotten closer together so I know the fluid was getting to them too. When I took a screwdriver and pried the pads apart, the reservoir over-flowed (naturally) so I know there was a good connection from the reservoir to the pistons. I took the caliper off/apart and checked for frozen pistons (just in case). Everything looked good. Cleaned everything and put it back together. Repeated and repeated the steps above many times all day yesterday and today. Still no brakes at the handle.

Like I said, the fluid runs great. No problem there. I'm beginning to think that the problem is inside the caliper but I don't know why it would start when all I did was change the mounting location. I've done everything exactly as the manual says and the (many) youtube videos show. The process is exactly the same as all the other bikes I've owned. Bleeding brakes is one of the simplest tasks on a bike. Do the ports in the caliper that feed the pistons have to be charged/filled before you reassemble the caliper block? What the F*** am I missing?

 

Is the brake lever hard, or soft?

 

Since you pried the pistons away from the rotors you have to pump the lever a few times to move them back out.

If you've done that.... I dunno.

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If the lever is soft and won't pump up? If so push the lever to the grip and secure it with tape (black electrical tape). Don't open any bleeders just leave it set for an hour and see if it better. What it will do is let any air come to the top of the system. You don't need to have the cap off the master cylinder.

 

Brake lever is soft. No resistance. No matter how many times I pump it, the pistons do not extend anymore. Even when they were engaged, I still had no resistance at the handle.

 

I'll try it. I've tried everything else I can think of. If it doesn't work I might pull the pistons again and fill fluid behind them and in the fluid channel before reinserting them.

 

Fine 09, use procedure that Madwrencher posted. You may have to tie off lever tight to grip overnight, this works for you issue.

 

Pump the lever till it hard, then loosen the bleeder screw while someone holds the lever down, Then tighten it quick before the lever goes all the way to the bars, then repeat, and repeat, and repeat.

That's how you bleed brakes.

Edit: you probably have air still in the line, use the above method and it should get better.

 

2 words...Speed Bleeders. They take all the work out of bleeding brakes and make it a 1 man job.

 

When I bought my project 04 RK, the front brakes had a really low lever. I tried all the previously mentioned ideas, including tying off lever over night. I finally took each caliper off and cleaned the crap out of the pistons. Not a take apart rebuild, but just extend and clean pistons. It worked.