Hello all,

Dealer put in cruise last Nov. Never tested it myself due to winter, bike was parked in garage all winter; since then I put in new speakers/amp, GPS, and aux flashing LED to brake circuit (didn't replace any switches/lights, just a add on pods that flashes upon 12V.)

Started riding past week and notice cruise control not controlling. Took it back to dealer, they were kind enough to tried to trouble for over half a day. They even call Harley, no luck. Indicator light @ tech didn't lit up either.

They hooked up a "thing" to the ECM and everything seems to communicate fine. Only thing they can do at this point is for me to disconnect what I did and take it back for them to trouble-shoot again.

Before I start disconnecting wires, a couple questions:

1. I used the IGN power lead (for Euro aux lights) next to headlight harness as my 12V trigger to amp as well as GPS power. There is a wire (black, I think) right next to the aux light wire that I use as ground.

2. Also added a flashing LED pod to my brake light. I read somewhere some flashing LED will cause cruise to not work, but I tap it in at the back where it goes to the tour pak LED brake light, so it should be after any switches.

Lastly, just want to make sure, if I turn on the cruise toggle switch, will the indicator light in the tach lit up standing still or only in motion? My thought is if the indicator light will lit up standing still, it will be a lot easier to pull one fuse @ a time instead of having to ride it to see if the cruise work.

Sorry for the long post, but see if anyone got insights. Thanks in advance.

 

If your cruise switch is ON and the bike is turned on, you should have a red indicator light. Once you engage it, it should turn green. Do you ONLY tap into the wires by the headlight and tail light? Did you work in the fuse box at all? how about the handlebar switch housings?

 

Thank you for your fast respond. The red light on the toggle switch is on. It never turns green because it's not engaging, how about the indicator light on the tach? Will it turn on upon power or engagement? That's the lite that doesn't lit up either. Dealer did mention maybe the tach light doesn't lit up has something to do with it, but I don't think the indicator light at the tach is wired in series to the cruise system.

Yes, I did work close to the fuse box but didn't tap any wires there, other to add in line fuses (heated seat through accessory switch, fuse for LED brake light pod, amp power and Zoombak directly from battery) close to the fuse panel for accessibility.

Also, no, I didn't touch the handlebar switch housing at all.

My dealer, Southside Harley in Indianapol, IN is extremely professional and helpful, I know electrical troubleshooting can be tricky, especially with all the "add-ons" I have.

 

Some brake-o-nator kits (and load equalizers) will cause the cruise not to operate or operate erratically due to the cruise thinking your tapping the brakes. I would start with unplugging or disconnecting the brake-o-nator and checking the function of the cruise again. We see about 3 a month with the same issue, has the dealer checked the drop-out codes on the cruise modual? That will give them (and you!) a better idea of what to try.

Hope this helps

 

I'll pull the fuse to the brake LED flasher pod and try it out. Didn't think it'll affect the cruise since it was parallel off the brake LED off of the Tour Pak brake light. So as far as the circuit goes, it should not see the load as long as the brakes are not applied.

Don't know what you mean by "drop-out codes on cruise module", but since the dealer hooked a code reader to the ECM, I'm sure that's what they're looking for. (The only code that show up on the ECM was "speakers blown" due to the speakers leads were disconnected running to a line out converter to the amp.)

Thanks for the tip.

 

Well, disconnected the flashing LED brake light pod, still no go. Guess gonna have to pull all the "add-ons" fuses and see what happens.

Another thing I read something about a "micro-switch" by the brake lever to de-activate the cruise, I'm sure dealer have already check that out, since they told me the power routing from switch to ECM seems to be OK.

 

Ok one idea down, something else to try ask your dealer if the tech checked the Drop out codes, Drop out codes are used to determine what the last few kill of the cruise controls were (brake kill, clutch kill or throttle up). Basically (I dont have the manual infront of me) you hold the cruise set swtich down with the ignition off, turn the ignition on and release the switch, the cruise light on the speedo will begin to flash and the number of flashes indicated will tell you what caused the cruise to stop, this should still work even though it looks like the cruise isnt even getting that far. This is probably something the shop tried but I would ask anyway. Its a very good tool for trouble shooting an issue like this, helps narrow your focus.
Good luck

 

Thank you Legend for the info. I'll certain try that and see what happens.

 

The light in the switch is always red. The light on the tach will be orange when the cruise is turned on, and it will turn green when you engage the cruise at your selected speed. If you disengage (tap brake) the indicator on the tach will turn orange again

 

Well, here is what I find out so far. The toggle switch turns red, but that's it, the indicator light in the tach NEVER lit up, period, with the toggle switch on and trying to set the cruise. It doesn't matter, lite never lit up.

Tried the "drop out code" suggested by Legend. Since the tach indicator light never lit up, can't tell what code, if any, is stored.

Dealer tech did mention maybe try changing out the tach, to see if it lit up at all. We both agree that shouldn't have anything to do with the cruise not working, since the tach indicator light is just that, an indicator light that should be wired in parallel, and not in series to the system.

They're going to order a tach anyway and put it in see what happens, guess at this point I just gonna have to wait.