I just adjusted the clutch as part of doing my own 5k service. Followed the manual and everything went smoothly. Backed cable adjuster all the way out. Loosen lock nut in primary (boy that bugger was tight), screwed the adjuster screw in until light engagement (manual's terminology), and backed off 3/4 turn. Locked the lock-nut down and changed the fluid. Grabs about 1" off the bar. Oh yea, did the ramp reset and cable slack adjust as directed.

The one thing I found is that there was no play in the screw to begin with. It was literally at the point of engagement when I started the job. Dealer did it last time. I wonder if they f'd up and adjusted hot or it was just normal wear...

 

Excellent point...You'll find out soon enough because YOU did the work and you will KNOW if it was normal wear or dealer f' d up...Best advice on this forum is get a manual...have patience and assuming you know how to read, do what you can yourself..It's a learning process and rewarding when you get it right..We have pride in our ride...so let your ride have pride in you....not to mention the $$$ saved..of course this kicks in and pays off after warrenty...sorry for the rant but stealers around here suck...

 

One tip I found on this site. The locknut will occasionally cause a burr and you will think you are getting light adjustment, but clutch will not be set up correctly. I thought I had ran out of adjustment on the cable, but I was not setting the adjustment correctly due to a burr on threads.

 

I can see how that would lead to setting the depth correctly. I actually found determining the engagement point was rather easy. I backed off and in three or four times and found I hit the same mark each time. I also think I would have noticed a burr on the thread since I deliberately forced the screw past the light engagement point and it got pretty stiff. I did that just to get a difference in the pressure of a light engage vs a harder contact. I guess anything can and does happen which is the great thing about the forum.