Why PowerVision outshines SEPST, TTS, Cobra, Thundermax......IMO
#1
02-05-2014, 04:51 PM
Why PowerVision outshines SEPST, TTS, Cobra, Thundermax......IMO
So I bought my 2014 SGS back in October 2013 in Asheville NC and trailered her home. I have ridden to Savannah GA and on a few nice days to get the break in miles out the way. I have the Stage 1 A/C, decatted headpipe from my black 2011 SG (missed), and my awesome 4" Jackpots. Recently, I saw a post for gps bike mounts and purchased a custom machined ring and B RAM ball to mount my Power Vision. After running the cable and getting the PV mounted, I started with a FM map and did two auto tunes. Side note- the bike runs really strong with the new factory cams, and the idle lope and roll is there too.
Now to the good part- I set up all my ECM channels for the live gauge mode, and began to notice the spark knock retard value was 2-3 degrees on the front cylinder at 220 degrees engine temp with only a light rap on the throttle at a stop light, and as much as 8.75 in the 85% and up throttle range. Back at the house, I checked my spark tables in the map- all good there. My next thought was spark plug gap- maybe a few thousandths more open on the front plug since the knock retard uses ion sensing and voltage monitoring technology. Greater gaps cause more retard essentially. So I said to myself- "SELF, if the gap is good, what if you swap the plugs, maybe the knock retard might show up on the rear cylinder?" I journey out to the garage and pulled the front plug boot off, BUT noticed it came off easily. Too easily. I pushed it back on, felt for the snap over the tip end, and then removed it, which took noticably more force. So I said to myself- "SELF, I wonder if the plug wire wasn't on fully from the MOCO?". I double checked the boot was snapped over the plug, and fired the bike up. Then, I rapped the throttle a few times, and the front spark knock retard was 0.00, unlike the 2-3 degrees retard from before. Next, I went down the road, got the engine temp to 220 degrees as before (thanks to PV live gauge reading ECM channels) and the front spark retard value stayed at 0.00. Problem fixed- insufficient voltage detected at the plug boot and the ECM was compensating.
The ECM channel live read/monitoring via the display makes the PV superior to the other tuners I have used. I like my PV, and here's a good reason why I think its superior to the other tuners. The PV allowed me to see an issue with the ECM and front cylinder knock retard, and it's because the MOCO or the dealer tech at PDI didn't ensure the plug boot was on the front plug completely.
Now to the good part- I set up all my ECM channels for the live gauge mode, and began to notice the spark knock retard value was 2-3 degrees on the front cylinder at 220 degrees engine temp with only a light rap on the throttle at a stop light, and as much as 8.75 in the 85% and up throttle range. Back at the house, I checked my spark tables in the map- all good there. My next thought was spark plug gap- maybe a few thousandths more open on the front plug since the knock retard uses ion sensing and voltage monitoring technology. Greater gaps cause more retard essentially. So I said to myself- "SELF, if the gap is good, what if you swap the plugs, maybe the knock retard might show up on the rear cylinder?" I journey out to the garage and pulled the front plug boot off, BUT noticed it came off easily. Too easily. I pushed it back on, felt for the snap over the tip end, and then removed it, which took noticably more force. So I said to myself- "SELF, I wonder if the plug wire wasn't on fully from the MOCO?". I double checked the boot was snapped over the plug, and fired the bike up. Then, I rapped the throttle a few times, and the front spark knock retard was 0.00, unlike the 2-3 degrees retard from before. Next, I went down the road, got the engine temp to 220 degrees as before (thanks to PV live gauge reading ECM channels) and the front spark retard value stayed at 0.00. Problem fixed- insufficient voltage detected at the plug boot and the ECM was compensating.
The ECM channel live read/monitoring via the display makes the PV superior to the other tuners I have used. I like my PV, and here's a good reason why I think its superior to the other tuners. The PV allowed me to see an issue with the ECM and front cylinder knock retard, and it's because the MOCO or the dealer tech at PDI didn't ensure the plug boot was on the front plug completely.
Last edited by RK14SGS; 02-05-2014 at 09:57 PM. Reason: can't type... lol...
#2
02-05-2014, 05:22 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#3
02-05-2014, 05:33 PM
Tourer
#4
02-05-2014, 05:35 PM
#5
02-05-2014, 05:49 PM
Road Master
So I bought my 2014 SGS back in October 2013 in Asheville NC and trailered her home. I have ridden to Savannah GA and on a few nice days to get the break in miles out the way. I have the Stage 1 A/C, decatted headpipe from my black 2011 SG (missed), and my awesome 4" Jackpots. Recently, I saw a post for gps bike mounts and purchased a custom machined ring and B RAM ball to mount my Power Vision. After running the cable and getting the PV mounted,
Thanks, Ride Safe
David
#7
02-05-2014, 06:10 PM
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#9
02-05-2014, 06:14 PM
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So I bought my 2014 SGS back in October 2013 in Asheville NC and trailered her home. I have ridden to Savannah GA and on a few nice days to get the break in miles out the way. I have the Stage 1 A/C, decatted headpipe from my black 2011 SG (missed), and my awesome 4" Jackpots. Recently, I saw a post for gps bike mounts and purchased a custom machined ring and B RAM ball to mount my Power Vision. After running the cable and getting the PV mounted, I started with a FM map and did two auto tunes. Side note- the bike runs really strong with the new factory cams, and the idle lope and roll is there too.
Now to the good part- I set up all my ECM channels for the live gauge mode, and began to notice the spark knock retard value was 2-3 degrees on the front cylinder at 220 degrees engine temp with only a light rap on the throttle at a stop light, and as much as 8.75 in the 85% and up throttle range. Back at the house, I checked my spark tables in the map- all good there. My next thought was spark plug gap- maybe a few thousandths more open on the front plug since the knock retard uses ion sensing and voltage monitoring technology. Greater gaps casue more retard essentially. So I said to myself- "SELF, if the gap is good, what if you swap the plugs, maybe the knock retard might show up on the rear cylinder?" I journey out to the garage and pulled the front plug boot off, BUT noticed it came off easily. Too easily. I pushed it back on, felt for the snap over the tip end, and then removed it, which took noticably more force. So I said to myself- "SELF, I wonder if the plug wire wasn't on fully from the MOCO?". I double checked the boot was snapped over the plug, and fired the bike up. Then, I rapped the throttle a few times, and the front spark knock retard was 0.00, unlike the 2-3 degrees retard from before. Next, I went down the road, got the engine temp to 220 degrees as before (thanks to PV live gauge reading ECM channels) and the front spark retard value stayed at 0.00. Problem fixed- insufficient voltage detected at the plug boot and the ECM was compensating.
The ECM channel live read/monitoring via the display makes the PV superior to the other tuners I have used. I like my PV, and here's a good reason why I think its superior to the other tuners. The PV allowed me to see an issue with the ECM and front cylinder knock retard, and it's because the MOCO or the dealer tech at PDI didn't ensure the plug boot was on the front plug completely.
Now to the good part- I set up all my ECM channels for the live gauge mode, and began to notice the spark knock retard value was 2-3 degrees on the front cylinder at 220 degrees engine temp with only a light rap on the throttle at a stop light, and as much as 8.75 in the 85% and up throttle range. Back at the house, I checked my spark tables in the map- all good there. My next thought was spark plug gap- maybe a few thousandths more open on the front plug since the knock retard uses ion sensing and voltage monitoring technology. Greater gaps casue more retard essentially. So I said to myself- "SELF, if the gap is good, what if you swap the plugs, maybe the knock retard might show up on the rear cylinder?" I journey out to the garage and pulled the front plug boot off, BUT noticed it came off easily. Too easily. I pushed it back on, felt for the snap over the tip end, and then removed it, which took noticably more force. So I said to myself- "SELF, I wonder if the plug wire wasn't on fully from the MOCO?". I double checked the boot was snapped over the plug, and fired the bike up. Then, I rapped the throttle a few times, and the front spark knock retard was 0.00, unlike the 2-3 degrees retard from before. Next, I went down the road, got the engine temp to 220 degrees as before (thanks to PV live gauge reading ECM channels) and the front spark retard value stayed at 0.00. Problem fixed- insufficient voltage detected at the plug boot and the ECM was compensating.
The ECM channel live read/monitoring via the display makes the PV superior to the other tuners I have used. I like my PV, and here's a good reason why I think its superior to the other tuners. The PV allowed me to see an issue with the ECM and front cylinder knock retard, and it's because the MOCO or the dealer tech at PDI didn't ensure the plug boot was on the front plug completely.
#10
02-05-2014, 06:18 PM
I agree with the PV goodness. I just installed mine last Saturday. Been too rainy for the autotune runs but I should be good to go this weekend. I'm happy to hear that the 4" jackpots sound good with a stock decatted header. They'll be my next buy. But what I really want is more info on where you got the mounting hardware.
Thanks, Ride Safe
David
Thanks, Ride Safe
David