I have an 05' RK Classic. Awesome sled! First bike, and i couldn't be happier. Bought it used two years ago with 20,000 miles on it. I currently have 30,000. I've read plenty regarding the replacement of the cam chain tensioners. I forget what the dealer wanted to charge me to inspect them. It was fair, but i couldn't bring myself to pay someone to do the inspection. I have always done most of the work myself on any kind of vehicle because of the outrageous cost of labor.

The other day i was thinking "i better take a look at them because i won't forgive myself if they go and it costs me even more money to repair the damage. Good thing i checked them. They aren't completely shot, but the front one is about 50% worn, and the rear looks like it's even more. I wouldn't ride it more than a few hundred more miles without concern.

So, my question is...
-can i just replace the tensioners with stock ones without disturbing the cams, and pushrods, and avoid the need for specialty tools?
-can i upgrade to hydraulic tensioners, and if so, what is involved? (or are gear driven a better option? (obviously runout is an issue)
-should i upgrade the cam while i am in there, and if so, does anyone have recommendations for low-mid range increase (a local indy recommended 211's.)
-Will i need specialty tools to do the above
-I currently have Vance & Hines long shot slip ons, and an open airbox in the back. Probably an aftermarket air filter.

The project doesn't look overly difficult, but my patience is shot these days. Unfortunately last year i was diagnosed with a brain tumor, and i have been dealing with a lot medically. I really need to ride for some stress relief so i want to get on this project quickly. I haven't ruled out paying someone to do the work, but i honestly feel that i would feel better about doing it myself, but again, i don't want to have to invest a lot of money in specialty tools that i probably won't use ever again.

Opinions?

Thanks!

I was a member on this site before but unfortunately i moved, had not logged in for a long time, forgot my password, and changed my email. Just a little more hassle to get a post out there!

 

No you can not replace the tensioners without pulling the cam plate, and to do so you either need to cut the push rods , and replace with adjustables, or go in from the top, and remove them. and if you don't make a special tool to replace the inner tensioner you need to press the cams out to put in a new one.
If you want a low end cam , I would say SE 204 is a good cam if you are doing nothing else to the engine, but everyone has a favorite.

 

Welcome back!! I've got the same bike with half your miles on it, but I've also been kicking this task around.....possibly NEXT winter.

Great question!!

 

Your bike looks sweet! I am happy with mine, especially for what i paid. I got it with a lot of extras and at a spectacular price. There are things that i would like, one being a 6 speed, and another, chrome wheels. Spokes look great on the classic, but they are tough to clean. I used to live on a dirt road, so they were never clean. I would love to do the full upgrade with cams and all but then i am guessing that would require a race tuner, and all that. If my health stays ok, I will probably upgrade to something a little newer in another year or so. I feel i made a great choice with the RK. I've ridden a sportster, a deuce, a heritage, a street glide and various metrics. I have to say i like the RK best. I think i would have liked the SG equally if it had the add-ons, but it was a stock ride, demo from the dealer.

 

I went with the Feuling 525 Reaper gear driven cams, and I will pick it up tomorrow. My 2002 is just approaching 20,000 miles and my tensioners were half worn through. Run-out was .0015 so going "gear driven" was not an issue. I switched my old stock header with Screamin' Eagle slip-ons to a Rush 2-into-1 to open up the exhaust. My indy says its a fun little bike. I'll let you know tomorrow!

 

Sorry about you health issues!!
Get a manual and replace the shoes with some cyco ones. It isn't rocket science.
No real reason to go to Hyd or gears. (check/replace the shoes every 20k or so)
If ya want to do cams Andrews 26 is my fav 88 bolt in. Lots of shops will press cams in&out for very little cost. Ya will need a new tune with new cams.

 

As mentioned, you have to pull the cam retaining plate out, and the cams will come with it.

Tensioners can be replaced with the cams installed by using a tool you have to make (youtube), or by removing the camshafts. I made the tool, found it to work poorly and ultimately scrapped it. The camshafts come out with just a little tapping via a wooden dowel. That was the route I ultimately went.

You can replace the entire tensioner assemblies, or you can just replace the shoes. I replaced the shoes only. Doing the shoes only necessitates their jig. Replacing the entire tensioner assembly is a drop in.

You should replace the cam bearings in the engine at this point. Can be done by hand, but using one of the tools / jigs makes it far easier and reduces the chance for drama.

Camshaft choice. I hemmed and hawed, and ultimately stayed stock. The stock engine starts easily, runs smoothly, has a nice usable power curve, and gets good gas mileage. All things I want.

 

I went with gear drive .510 S&S. It was pricey $900 in parts and tools to do it myself, $1100 to have the indy do it. I do not regret it due to peace of mind. One less thing to worry about.

 

I did mine, and did cams and hydraulic tensioners at the same time. I cheaped out and bought a used hydraulic cam plate and went through the top so I saved on adjustable rods. I installed Andrews 21N (conversion) cams, pretty noticeable seat of the pants improvement. Oil pressure went up too. Lots of how to videos out there. You'll need to get an inner cam bearing tool, about $100. Used cam plate, cams, gaskets about $500 iirc. I have the cam tool and would let you use it if you cover shipping both ways.

 

The hydraulic tensioners is not the answer. You need to go to roller chains if you want to stop the wear. However considering it's an 05, simply new tensors makes the most dollar sense if they need replaced. Mine is an 04 and the original are still in there at 40K. On mine, all I need to do is roll exhaust shield to get to bolts to pull cam cover. The back tensioner is hard to see but if you look carefully, if the link chain pins are not to the edge of the plastic, you are OK. If you pay someone to inspect,may as well replace the shoes. If you bike has been ridden easy out of the upper rpm range a lot, bet they are OK.First picture is link chain wear, second is roller chain that stops once rollers hit, my tensioners at 30K with link chain and Harley's hydraulic tensioners that replaces the front sprocket with a roller chain and gear when rear link chain is not replaced since there is no way to replace the link gear on the cam.