jagg oil cooler install
#1
jagg oil cooler install
I have a list of things to do to my 2012 triglide during the upcoming long dreary San Diego winter. I have stage 1 plus cams, and found with the added compression from the SE255 cams the stage 1 advantage was nulled. So, I am now going to more directly address cooling. One upgrade i am considering is the horizontal Jagg oil cooler with fans.
So, to those that have done this upgrade on later model tris with the factory installed OEM oil cooler:
- did the Jagg 10 row with fans appreciably reduce oil temperature?
- the Jagg web site indicates you need to replace the oil filter adapter...do you really need to do this when replacing the OEM cooler?
Hoping for cooler times,
Jeff
So, to those that have done this upgrade on later model tris with the factory installed OEM oil cooler:
- did the Jagg 10 row with fans appreciably reduce oil temperature?
- the Jagg web site indicates you need to replace the oil filter adapter...do you really need to do this when replacing the OEM cooler?
Hoping for cooler times,
Jeff
#2
#3
I have a Jagg 10 row with fan assist. I've put about 9,000 miles on my '12 TG while running the Jagg. It consistently runs 20-30 cooler at freeway speeds. At stoplights the temps never go above 230 deg. I live near Fresno, CA and see lots of 90+ degree days each year.
One note about the adapter, I'm not entirely sure you have to use their adapter. I think that either MSocko or M3 uses (used) a jagg with the stock HD adapter.
The Jagg adapter routes oil through the filter then to the cooler, or vice versa. I'm not sure, but it's opposite routing than the HD adapter. The JAGG site discusses that rationale.
If you put a Jagg on, you won't be disappointed.
One note about the adapter, I'm not entirely sure you have to use their adapter. I think that either MSocko or M3 uses (used) a jagg with the stock HD adapter.
The Jagg adapter routes oil through the filter then to the cooler, or vice versa. I'm not sure, but it's opposite routing than the HD adapter. The JAGG site discusses that rationale.
If you put a Jagg on, you won't be disappointed.
Last edited by TheBobs; 10-10-2013 at 03:10 PM.
#4
I have a Jagg 10 row with fan assist. I've put about 9,000 miles on my '12 TG while running the Jagg. It consistently runs 20-30 cooler at freeway speeds. At stoplights the temps never go above 230 deg. I live near Fresno, CA and see lots of 90+ degree day each year.
One note about the adapter, I'm not entirely sure you have to use their adapter. I think that either MSocko or M3 uses (used) a jagg with the stock HD adapter.
The Jagg adapter routes oil through the filter then to the cooler, or vice versa. I'm not sure, but it's opposite routing than the HD adapter. The JAGG site discusses that rationale.
If you put a Jagg on, you won't be disappointed.
One note about the adapter, I'm not entirely sure you have to use their adapter. I think that either MSocko or M3 uses (used) a jagg with the stock HD adapter.
The Jagg adapter routes oil through the filter then to the cooler, or vice versa. I'm not sure, but it's opposite routing than the HD adapter. The JAGG site discusses that rationale.
If you put a Jagg on, you won't be disappointed.
#5
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I have a list of things to do to my 2012 triglide during the upcoming long dreary San Diego winter. I have stage 1 plus cams, and found with the added compression from the SE255 cams the stage 1 advantage was nulled. So, I am now going to more directly address cooling. One upgrade i am considering is the horizontal Jagg oil cooler with fans.
So, to those that have done this upgrade on later model tris with the factory installed OEM oil cooler:
- did the Jagg 10 row with fans appreciably reduce oil temperature?
- the Jagg web site indicates you need to replace the oil filter adapter...do you really need to do this when replacing the OEM cooler?
Hoping for cooler times,
Jeff
So, to those that have done this upgrade on later model tris with the factory installed OEM oil cooler:
- did the Jagg 10 row with fans appreciably reduce oil temperature?
- the Jagg web site indicates you need to replace the oil filter adapter...do you really need to do this when replacing the OEM cooler?
Hoping for cooler times,
Jeff
If I were to do it over again I would get the Wards Parts Werks FCS BEFORE replacing the stock oil cooler. It is quite possible with the FCS that the stock oil cooler will be good enough.
#7
I'd try the FCS fans first as Kevin suggests and then go with the Jagg if need be. I would highly recommend using the Jagg adaptor due to the way the oil is routed and for the value of the thermal switch. If you decide to go with the Jagg, I have a couple of tricks I can pass along that I got from Marv at Jagg.
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#8
#9
Sure Mike,
No big secrets and very simple follow the installation instructions to the letter. Additionally, spray copper coat on both sides of the adaptor gasket, install and torque to specs. It is critical to retighten the adaptor bolts in a criss cross fashion every time the oil filer is removed. Install the anti-rotation device, this is a must. Make sure that all of the hose clamps are positioned, so that you can get to them if they loosen up (I know mine did once).
The normal installation gets power from the brake light switch for the fan temp switch. This is too close to the heat from the exhaust IMO and the reason why I wired mine through a toggle on the fairing.
No big secrets and very simple follow the installation instructions to the letter. Additionally, spray copper coat on both sides of the adaptor gasket, install and torque to specs. It is critical to retighten the adaptor bolts in a criss cross fashion every time the oil filer is removed. Install the anti-rotation device, this is a must. Make sure that all of the hose clamps are positioned, so that you can get to them if they loosen up (I know mine did once).
The normal installation gets power from the brake light switch for the fan temp switch. This is too close to the heat from the exhaust IMO and the reason why I wired mine through a toggle on the fairing.
#10
I hooked mine up to the brake light switch initially, but moved it to the aux switch. My logic was that I wanted to run the fan in slow speed situations like cutbacks in the mountains, slow traffic to and from the central coast, and city stop and go traffic. None of those situations generally provide enough airflow on a 90-108 degree day, but the trike is still moving and the brake pedal can't be used. I also turn it off if I'm consistently moving more than 35 mph.