Is there any difference between the Redline VTwin shockproof thats pink in color than the Blue 75-140 shockproof in the white bottle ? It's all shockproof and other than the the color I'd think there wouldn't be any difference but thought I'd ask anyways.

 

Isn't the pink stuff called heavy shockproof and the blue is just shockproof?. By the way, its what i been using in my transmission for many thousands of miles

 

I use the red in all my bikes. Haven't used anything else since I first tried it.

 

Other than the color and the weight of 75-140 for the blue or the 75-250 for the pink is there anyone running the blue is what I was wondering, I bought a qt yesterday but if no good I'll take it back.

 

Just in case anyone else runs into this again here's the answer from redline.


These products are different viscosities. The V-Twin Trans is the same as our Heavy Shockproof.
We do three grades of this unique Shockproof product, which is like a liquid grease and not like a blended gear oil, so it is very difficult to classify in viscosity range. As close as you’d come is to say the V-Twin (Heavy) flows like a 90W, the Lightweight like an 80 and the Superlight flows like a 70. The protection of each far exceeds the weight.

We don’t recommend the Lightweight in a V-Twin transmission. You want to use the Heavy/V Twin Trans fluid.

Enjoy the summer and the bike! Cameron[/QUOTE][/COLOR]

 

 

Apache Snow -

Read my post again: "Yellow metal is affected by the slippery additives in some GL5 gear oils."

I am not disagreeing with what you said. SOME GL5 gear oils are corrosive to yellow metals. I never said that ALL GL5 gear oils were corrosive. I agree with you on the Sportster transmission. The Miata information is completely separate from the Sportster. I never said they were the same.

Why are you so argumentative? Calm down. Take a deep breath and count to 10. You will be OK in a few minutes.

 

Guess this is going to make it an oil thread but watch the pink. Think it is pretty heavy for late model 6 speeds.

They have some very small double roll of needle bearings in between input shaft and main drive gear. They need a 50W to flush properly in my opinion. Also the bearing runs on a shaft rather then a real bearing race. This could be the problem.

There have been quite a few needle bearing failures on here and people were using the pink. So whatever you use, make sure it matches Harley's spec. Don't just use it because a tin man says so or a user says it is OK. Make sure he has a ton of trouble free miles and you trust him.

 

HI48 -
Do you have a link to your thread on ATF in the Sportster primary? I have no opinion on using it, one way or the other, but I know that Ford has been using it in their car and truck manual transmissions at least since the early 1980's. I have it in my 2002 F-150 right now as recommended by the owner's manual.

 

Keep in mind your Ford does not have a small input shaft running inside a larger output shaft that has small needle bearings under a running load.

The needle bearings it has are only on the gears so they can free wheel when not engaged. If a gear is locked in in use, the needles do not roll. They only serve as a centering device so proper clearance is maintained thru spinning of the gear since engaged, now locked to the shaft.

Years ago, these bearings were sleeve bearings but quieter gear trains required the almost zero runout of needle bearings.