Never had pods so not mich help there. I know the Polk mm 651 used to be a fav of ganns. I would focus om both pods and consider speaker lids. If the aw are still not loud enough I would consider jumping to the pro audio bandwagon and add some rear to retain some low end. Its all about system balance but still keeping the front stage primary focus of volume.

 

yea, some cool dude hooked me up Rick I'm sure the same deal is around here somewhere for you too. If I can get my front stage to sound somewhere near as good as yours I may never put my tour pack on again even though I bought speakers for it and plan to drive it with the other half of the arc. I promise this is not another hijack WTR, this question could serve you well too. Have any of you gurus had a go at making a mini patch bay to switch from bridged to a front stage to 4 channel operation on the fly? Is it even possible or would the input gains have to change too dramatically.

 

that last point drives it home, I've seen that in guys guitar rigs over the years. Want more sound pressure you need more speakers or more efficient ones.

 

WTR: before I purchased another amp I would bump the JL up to 150-160 watts.

As far as tourpak speakers go you don't know what you're missing! If you can fit another JL amp under the faring and a good pair of speakers you will be able to hear them at any speed. I currently have the BT amp and Milli pros back there. They will need the V-Twin adapters thou. From what I hear the Focal 165 KRC work very well if not better. Another option are the Hertz HCX 165's with 1/2" spacers. SF has a pair for sale in the classifieds.

 

Bertk - I've already got the MHX gains bumped up to 25.3 volts, so it's producing 160 watts + or -.

It may indeed be time to consider upgrading the rear stage, instead of just throwing more power at the front speakers. I'll need to see if another MHX will fit inside the fairing. If it will, I'll definitely need another BT355, in addition to rear speakers and possibly adapters to fit them in the pods.

What's the general consensus of splicing & dicing the wiring harness in the fairing for access to the rear speaker wires versus getting the BT Break-out Harness? I really hate cutting factory wires.

I guess that another option (I can't believe I'm saying this) would be to mount the amp & BT355 in the tourpack.

 

If another MHX doesn't fit the NVX should. Or mount the MHX as T did in the pic below.

I spliced into the harness two years ago long before the BOH came out without issue. It's not a big deal, just a little time consuming.

The wrap on the harness is self stick and can be peeled back and reused.
Cut each of the wires above.
Solder a 16ga length of wire to each one of the cut wires (color coded for + & -) long enough to reach the amp inputs or Universal Line Levelers in this case and to the speaker outputs on the amp.
Apply shrink to each connection.
Apply shrink to each pair of wires and label them.
Reapply the wrap and tape the end.

The four wires coming from the plug on the harness will connect to the Universal LL.
The other four wires will connect to the speaker outputs on the amp.

 

If u gonna spend any money on an amp u might as well get a 4 channel for the tray and bridge it then side mount the MHX 280 and use that for the rears. Plenty of amps avail for the tray from the $100 Soundstream to the DD D4 up to the $300 JL MX 500/4.
Then get simple coax for the rear depending what ur ears and wallet want. The AD 2100 might be a good play. Motos? Polls? BT?
This will get u the 200w to the AWs and 150w for the TP pods.

T.

 

The TM (this is the marine version) does NOT kill FM but the T version might.

There is a thread somewhere where the Fosgate guy explains the difference between the TM and T and some kind of shielding in the TM version.

 

Took another 2 hour ride yesterday to keep breaking in my AW6.5/BT30s and AD CX62s in the rear, being pushed by the Bt4180. Let me tell you, this is starting to sound better and better as they break in. I do not find any harshness in the BT30s, so I think you will like those.

For the rear, those AD CXs are fantastic! Loud! They perfectly compliment the AWs and fill out the sound stage. Though the AWs are the primary source when flying down 80mph, I have toggled between just the fronts and both front/rear and, call me crazy, but I can hear a difference when moving down the road. Parked, no question the AW CXs in the rear add to the sound and make it really shine.

On power, I was thinking just the same thing last night. At one point I had the volume maxed out on the Boom 6.5 and it seemed the speakers all wanted and could have taken more power. But, I am going to leave it as is for a while.

 

I checked-out the NVX MVPA4 and it's conservatively rated at 175 watts @ 4 ohms - bridged. Is it a "warm" amp and how does the sound quality compare to the JL-MHX?