What cams did you use in the end....they are the key to power in a turbo!

 

Thats the area i am addressing right now. With stock cams and head configuration I was kind of stuck where I am.

Going to a higher lift cam and i'll take it from there. Think I am using the SE .551s, have a set sitting on the shelf.

 

The Sportster,
They might be the cheapest bike harley makes and the best to start out on but that dont make them a cheap built bike.I would consider them as harleys little hot rod! They make more sense to hop up than the big bikes.Its easier to hack on $8k than $20k.Some bikes are too fat to fly..Not saying that it cant or has not been done because I see it all the time.However it takes alot of cash and could allways be faster on a lighter bike.(If thats what you are after)I must admit that a fast bagger is cool!I think a sporty with a turbo would deal alot of 30k bikes fits.(If you can fit something on a big twin then with a few mods and a knowledgable mech/fab guy it could probably be installed on a sporty too.With motivation!LOL!)A dyna might not be a bad idea either..I have an old shovelhead and a v-rod now. I'm considering a trask or something similar for the V-rod.I'm a fan of the turbo, and ran them on a few car engines.Best bang for the buck and still be docile when needed.I find the wheelbase to be too short on the sporty to keep the front down,but allways came back with a smile from riding a hot one!

 

I like the layout and fit of the Hellcat turbo setup on the sporty..Have they played with turboing a v-rod yet? I'm lookin at a trask but want to see whats avail,.

 

I do not think that Cam 'lift' is actually what you want. Check out the specs of an Andrews EV31 which is a blower cam. To quote an unknown source:

"Usually stock cams make the best turbo cams, with the exception of some older shovelhead Harley Sportsters. Those machines have fairly radical cam timing, which is less than ideal for turbocharging.

The criteria for a good turbo cam are pretty basic. The less overlap and duration, the better. If both valves are open for too long a period at the same time (overlap), you lose a lot of boost potential right out the exhaust pipe. Today's engines, with their free-flowing heads, need less overlap and duration to achieve a competitive power figure. With the exception of special racing models like Honda RC3Os and such, most modem motorcycle engines have cam timing suitable for turbocharging or supercharging.

An ideal turbo cam has approximately 15 cam degrees of overlap, 7.5 degrees each side of TDC. The duration of opening should be 220 to 240 crankshaft degrees. The duration is based on readings taken at 0.002 inches off the heal of the cam. Be aware that many cam grinders give duration and overlap readings at 0.050 inches off the heel of the cam. Do not use these readings, as you will end up with more overlap and duration than is acceptable.

Remember, when the lifter is 0.050 off the heel at zero lash, the valves are 0.075 off their seat (assuming a typical rocker arm leverage of 1.5 to 1). All cam modifications should be checked after partial assembly of the engine, using a degree wheel on the crankshaft and a dial indicator on the cam or cam follower."

Lobe-separation angle is another way
of expressing overlap. It is usually
expressed as the number of crankshaft
degrees between the intake and exhaust
lobe center lines. If the exhaust lobe
centerline is 114 crankshaft degrees
before top dead center (BTDC), and the
intake lobe centerline is 106 crankshaft
degrees after top dead center (ATDC),
adding the two numbers together and
dividing by two (to get cam degrees),
will produce the lobe-separation angle
measured at the camshaft. In this case,
106 + 114 = 220 and 220/2 = 110
degrees. Lobe-separation angle is just
another way to express valve overlap
and is the best way to define the
relationship between exhaust valve
closing and intake valve opening. As
the lobe-separation angle becomes
tighter (from 110 degrees to 106
degrees, for example), this moves the
intake and exhaust lobe centerlines
closer together, increasing the amount
of valve overlap. Going the other way,
moving the lobe centerlines farther
apart decreases the amount of valve
overlap. Turbo motors will benefit from
a moderate increase in lift. Increasing
lift will allow more air and fuel to enter
the cylinder without necessarily
increasing overlap and duration.

 

Thats a good lookin' v-rod.You are planning on building the lower-end up before you turbo are'nt you.

 

I know I should in order to run decient boost.11.5 to 1 + boost on stock internals seems like a time bomb.I know a few guys running turbos on stock engines but I dont know the boost levels they are pushin.I'm pushin 40k on this one and I could go either way.If I go ahead and build the engine then I will probably add a few more cubes to it,,then,maybey stroke it,then its a can of worms.LOLThen to hold it together maybey larger pins in the block,bullit proof internals will just be as strong as what holds them together.I will probably have to hold off on the turbo for another season after prepping it.Due to funds.LOL!I'm building a TT6.0 lsx for my old vette so Im pushing it to try to do it all on my budget and finnish by next riding season.
I guess if I can go through it without getting carried away with all of the"well since I'm in here I might as well do this stuff" ...It could happen.

 

You should definitely build the bottom end up...just to be safe. You don't want to do all that work just to blow your engine...

TT6.0 lxs vette?? thats pretty sweet..Ive always loved vettes

 

Hellcat is able to custom make a V-Rod kit, for me it was between Hellcat and Trask and I chose Hellcat after speaking to both.

 

Hell cat will make you a very nice system your bottom end will handle a good 150/150. hp more than that your are playing with fire...