Also, be careful with those carb pops. One time on a hot restart my old EVO popped back through the carb pretty loudly and created a huge intake leak at the carb/manifold seal. It blew the rubber off of one side of the joint and started leaking bad. I had limited tools with me and was 15 miles from home.
Some say they have developed base gasket leaks because of carb pops.
If I don't let my bike warm up properly it wants to carb pop unless I leave the enricher pulled out. I don't like doing that so I let it warm up enough before taking off.
One time I bought a new carb/manifold rubber and it leaked on first install.

 

This is the plug with 46 and 3 turns out. Today I ran the 46 with 4 1/4 turns out and I got no cough.

 

46/180. 4 turns out on idle screw

 

It looks a tad lean to me.
I never liked a lot of turns out on the idle screw. I raise the pilot jet a few more sizes or just shim the needle. That gives an overall effect imo better than just more idle jet fuel. I think the fuel mixes better. I never had much luck running lots of turns on it.
If it's not caughting anymore then it's getting better. Do a mpg test when you ride.

 

This might help you read your plugs
Spark Plug Rich Lean Chart

 

Link is dead

 

Sorry about that.
Try running a search for spark plug reading. I found lots of pics of plugs.
Myself I like to see pretty clean white porcelain and a tiny bit of grey soot on the end of the prong.
Black soot around the ring they say is a rich idle jet I think.

 

Forget your plugs (for now).

First thing I'd do is replace the intake grommet. While it's off, pull the top and check the rubber diaphragm closely for tiny pin holes. (I saw another thread you started) If that doesn't clear it up, replace the o-rings on the manifold.

48 is what you need for the low jet but if there's an intake leak, nothing else you do is going to fix it. You also need to ensure the enricher is seating properly. Loosen the outer tension **** on the cable. Pull it out a little, then gently let it pull itself in. The **** should stop about 1/16" away from the tension nut. If any doubt, replace the "starter valve" (as listed in the parts book). Costs about 9.00 and if it's not seating/sealing correctly, it'll drive you nucking futs chasing ghosts in the carb. Don't ask me how I know......

Just watched video 2 a couple more times. Yeah, you have a vacuum (intake) leak. May even be the hose to, or the VOES itself.

 

Im 100% sure its not an intake leak. I had one and replaced gaskets and flanges. Used wd40 around all the way on both to triple check. The vacuum I thought was an issue since I couldnt get gas to come out of the fuel value when I was figuring it out. After having it ride crappy when I went back to the 46 after the 48 kept backfiring/popping on acceleration. After all the troubleshooting and being sure I didnt have leaks and trying the simple solutions first, I gave up and put it in the hands of an old HD wrench that has his own shop for a looksee. Knowing my luck it will probably be something way more costly than fixing a leak.

 

Sure sounded and acts like a vacuum leak. Hope it's something simple (and cheap) to straighten it out. Post back when your guy gets it fixed. That's why most of us are here - to help and/or learn