Interesting, But wouldn't the added back pressure defeat the original stage 1 making it more like stock?
Just asking, I would think at first glance it would defeat the purpose.

 

Ranger, you are right, it does seem like it would defeat the purpose some. I always thought less back pressure equals more power. Sems that not actually true.
Hopefully some experts will chime in with the scientific details....


My understanding is the drag pipes drastically reduce pressure but this drastic reductions adversely affect low and mid throttle torque. The stock baffle may help this some but not enough. Adding the TTIs adds more back pressure and reduces power loss in the low to mid RPM range. I take it the TTI is used as a tool to dial in the exhaust to achieve the most power throughout the RMP range.


That's my take on it. Lets hope the wizards can shed more light on this.

 

I'm running the TTIs in my Big Shots Longs and love the sound. Nice at idle and cruise, and they can really bark when you twist the wrist.
To the OP: The end caps have to come off to install the quiet baffles, but will fit after installation.

 

I understand the TTI theory if no baffles and short pipes. But quite baffles and TTI's just confuses me for the torque value. Unless it's just a sound thing.

 

When I'd originally responded regarding the quiet baffles I was under the impression that Gerald Fall was looking to change to the V&H quiet baffles for sound reduction reasons; the Q118's and the stock baffle would be more effective at sound reduction than the quiet baffles.

Discovering he has no baffles at all is why I suggested the W158's. The TTI's installed will increase exhaust gas velocity and reduce reversion of fresh air in to the pipe, the net result will be an increase in low and mid range torque and the pipes will have a deeper tone with the brighter overtones removed; a much more cost effective and a better performing solution since his baffles are already gone.

OP, to install either stock or the quiet baffles you'll need to remove the billet end caps and the heat shields; the full coverage shields are covering the hole for the baffle bolt.

To install TTI's you'll need to remove the pipes from the bike so you can enlarge the baffle holes; positioned where they are you'll never be able to enlarge them otherwise. Notching the heat shields is a rather easy job. But in whatever direction you take, be sure you use blue loctite on the end cap mounting screws. Those caps can go missing and are not exactly cheap to replace

 

Okay, so my original belief stands as correct.
Clear as mud. 👍🏻

 

Your going to get plenty of back pressure from the QBs with a torque gain throughout all throttle ranges, using TTIs is redundant and unnecessary.