help with fall away
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Outstanding HDF Member
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From: TEXAS
help with fall away
Can someone please tell me how to check and adjust the fall away on my 14 lowrider. CAn you please discribe it like i have a learning disability because i just cant seem to grasp it after all these years.
the book for my 06 superglide has a totally differnt technique than the book for my 14 lowrider and to tell you the truth im not sure i have ever really done it right.
but the tension on the neck feels sloppy to me so id like to check it the right way.
the book for my 06 superglide has a totally differnt technique than the book for my 14 lowrider and to tell you the truth im not sure i have ever really done it right.
but the tension on the neck feels sloppy to me so id like to check it the right way.
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From: NW Ohio
First off, what makes you think you're doing wrong?
Second, make sure you remove the clutch, idle, & throttle cables. They are pretty stiff and will affect your measurements.
Third, make sure the bike is completely off the ground and level.
The basic concept is that as you tighten the bearings, they increase the amount of force it takes to turn the forks. You want the forks to hold themselves in place even after you start to turn them away from center...for a portion of the total turning range. The specific dimension and measurment location varies by year and model. As you turn the forks (with one finger) they will resist and hold their position when you let go up to a certain point where they will flop over (or fall away) on their own. The point at which that happens is the the fall away dimension. The hard part is setting up the measuring method.
I may get crucified for saying this, but I feel a little too tight (more resistance, bigger measurement) is better than a little too loose.
Second, make sure you remove the clutch, idle, & throttle cables. They are pretty stiff and will affect your measurements.
Third, make sure the bike is completely off the ground and level.
The basic concept is that as you tighten the bearings, they increase the amount of force it takes to turn the forks. You want the forks to hold themselves in place even after you start to turn them away from center...for a portion of the total turning range. The specific dimension and measurment location varies by year and model. As you turn the forks (with one finger) they will resist and hold their position when you let go up to a certain point where they will flop over (or fall away) on their own. The point at which that happens is the the fall away dimension. The hard part is setting up the measuring method.
I may get crucified for saying this, but I feel a little too tight (more resistance, bigger measurement) is better than a little too loose.
Last edited by cggorman; Apr 16, 2017 at 07:04 PM.
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,666
Likes: 133
From: TEXAS
as i turn the handlebars, it is smooth and consistent but seems loose
Thread Starter
|
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,666
Likes: 133
From: TEXAS
First off, what makes you think you're doing wrong?
Second, make sure you remove the clutch, idle, & throttle cables. They are pretty stiff and will affect your measurements.
Third, make sure the bike is completely off the ground and level.
The basic concept is that as you tighten the bearings, they increase the amount of force it takes to turn the forks. You want the forks to hold themselves in place even after you start to turn them away from center...for a portion of the total turning range. The specific dimension and measurment location varies by year and model. As you turn the forks (with one finger) they will resist and hold their position when you let go up to a certain point where they will flop over (or fall away) on their own. The point at which that happens is the the fall away dimension. The hard part is setting up the measuring method.
I may get crucified for saying this, but I feel a little too tight (more resistance, bigger measurement) is better than a little too loose.
Second, make sure you remove the clutch, idle, & throttle cables. They are pretty stiff and will affect your measurements.
Third, make sure the bike is completely off the ground and level.
The basic concept is that as you tighten the bearings, they increase the amount of force it takes to turn the forks. You want the forks to hold themselves in place even after you start to turn them away from center...for a portion of the total turning range. The specific dimension and measurment location varies by year and model. As you turn the forks (with one finger) they will resist and hold their position when you let go up to a certain point where they will flop over (or fall away) on their own. The point at which that happens is the the fall away dimension. The hard part is setting up the measuring method.
I may get crucified for saying this, but I feel a little too tight (more resistance, bigger measurement) is better than a little too loose.
Correct, it is setting up the measurement that im not sure of
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: TEXAS
It says, "tape a wide piece of cardboard parallel to the front fender tip" "place a suitable marking material on the front fender tip like masking tape"
what does that mean? " parallel to the front fender tip"
does it mean to put a big piece of cardboard on the front fender tip, with a pointer taped to a chair and the pointer is lined up with the center of the fender tip, then tap and mark and all that?
what does that mean? " parallel to the front fender tip"
does it mean to put a big piece of cardboard on the front fender tip, with a pointer taped to a chair and the pointer is lined up with the center of the fender tip, then tap and mark and all that?
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: NW Ohio
It says, "tape a wide piece of cardboard parallel to the front fender tip" "place a suitable marking material on the front fender tip like masking tape"
what does that mean? " parallel to the front fender tip"
does it mean to put a big piece of cardboard on the front fender tip, with a pointer taped to a chair and the pointer is lined up with the center of the fender tip, then tap and mark and all that?
what does that mean? " parallel to the front fender tip"
does it mean to put a big piece of cardboard on the front fender tip, with a pointer taped to a chair and the pointer is lined up with the center of the fender tip, then tap and mark and all that?
As you reach the point of "fall away", put a mark on the cardboard so it lines up with the mark on the fender.
Measure the distance between the two cardboard marks.
This gets hinky because fender lengths vary and everything is moving in an arc. It really should be measured in degrees.
The difference between 2" and 4" of fall away isn't that big of a deal, IMO. As long as the forks hold themselves for a few inches off center you're in the ballpark. Take it for a ride and note how it feels and sounds. Make small adjustments until you like it.
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: NW Ohio
I like to yank forward/back/up/down on the front wheel as I adjust ALL the slack out of the adjuster, then give it an extra 1/16-1/8 turn and give it a rest ride. That takes too much "feel" to be a reliable/repeatable procedure, though. Again, I feel like the procedure Harley provides is wildly inadequate. I'd prefer a min/max adjustment torque and angular followup check.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: TEXAS
It gets squiffy there. I can understand your confusion. You want a chunk of cardboard maybe 12" x 12", a roll of painters tape, and a marker. roll the front tire of the bike up to a flat wall and jack it up. Tape one edge of the cardboard to the wall and situate it so it rests on top of the fender like a table. You may have to trim it so the fender doesn't rip it off the wall when you turn the forks. Put a strip of tape on the fender and make a mark at the centerline. Make a matching mark on the cardboard. The marks should both be lined up when the wheel is pointing straight ahead.
As you reach the point of "fall away", put a mark on the cardboard so it lines up with the mark on the fender.
Measure the distance between the two cardboard marks.
This gets hinky because fender lengths vary and everything is moving in an arc. It really should be measured in degrees.
The difference between 2" and 4" of fall away isn't that big of a deal, IMO. As long as the forks hold themselves for a few inches off center you're in the ballpark. Take it for a ride and note how it feels and sounds. Make small adjustments until you like it.
As you reach the point of "fall away", put a mark on the cardboard so it lines up with the mark on the fender.
Measure the distance between the two cardboard marks.
This gets hinky because fender lengths vary and everything is moving in an arc. It really should be measured in degrees.
The difference between 2" and 4" of fall away isn't that big of a deal, IMO. As long as the forks hold themselves for a few inches off center you're in the ballpark. Take it for a ride and note how it feels and sounds. Make small adjustments until you like it.