Melting terminals
#11
11-17-2018, 10:02 AM
HDF Community Team
I agree that, if you have a prayer of saving that battery, you're going to have to be able to dress the terminals so you can get a good, tight connection on each one. It might not be possible given the amount of damage they appear to have sustained. That amount of damage also points to damage to the lugs on the battery leads as well. Are you sure they are undamaged?
If the leads do not sit flush with the terminals when installed, this could well be the root of the problem.
If the leads do not sit flush with the terminals when installed, this could well be the root of the problem.
#12
11-17-2018, 10:06 AM
Club Member
Although that "Duracell" battery above was made by the same Co. that makes them For Harley (East Penn Manufacturing), that's the difference between buying OE and buying aftermarket ... Flush Terminals vs. NON Flush
#13
11-17-2018, 10:23 AM
Maybe you have a cell or two shorted inside the battery causing an extremely high amperage draw. Several other possibilities too. If everything was working okay before you changed the battery I would suspect a bad battery, as long as you tightened the cables to the battery properly. 
Never use sand paper or any other grit contained cleaner. Instead use a brass wire brush, and not one with steel bristles. You`ll thank me later.
All very good points. He needs to follow your lead.
Usually that is caused by resistance in the connections. High current draw through a resistive connection generates heat. It may be too late, but if nothing is damaged, you can try cleaning the connections (use sand paper) and reinstalling them, coating them with dielectric grease, and torquing them correctly. But if they're to far gone the only recourse is to replace the connectors (or, if I understand you correctly, the battery.) If the battery terminals melted, the battery is toast.
Another possible cause, although less likely, is excessive current draw by the starter, but, usually, if that's the case, the smoke will come from the starter or the solenoid, not the battery.
Another possible cause, although less likely, is excessive current draw by the starter, but, usually, if that's the case, the smoke will come from the starter or the solenoid, not the battery.
Lets see,
You put this BRAND NEW battery in last week and went for a 5 mile ride.
Starter cranked slow out of the box with BRAND NEW battery but you assumed it was from sitting on a shelf.
Was battery ever placed on a charger, trickle charger, battery tender or anything similar?
TODAY, bike turned over slow but would not fire. You report that start switch was held down for 10 seconds during this attempt.
Why did you replace the the original battery?
Did you have the original OLD battery tested?
Did you check the charging system prior to original OLD battery replacement?
When the NEW battery was brought home...Did you test that NEW battery?
When NEW battery was installed...Did you test charging system?
These questions are important in order to isolate if problem is with battery, charging system or loose ground.
A battery in a poor charging state that is forced to spin a starter will meet with a huge amount of resistance and cause wiring and battery to heat....if someone was to attempt multiple prolonged attempted starts then things start to melt.
You put this BRAND NEW battery in last week and went for a 5 mile ride.
Starter cranked slow out of the box with BRAND NEW battery but you assumed it was from sitting on a shelf.
Was battery ever placed on a charger, trickle charger, battery tender or anything similar?
TODAY, bike turned over slow but would not fire. You report that start switch was held down for 10 seconds during this attempt.
Why did you replace the the original battery?
Did you have the original OLD battery tested?
Did you check the charging system prior to original OLD battery replacement?
When the NEW battery was brought home...Did you test that NEW battery?
When NEW battery was installed...Did you test charging system?
These questions are important in order to isolate if problem is with battery, charging system or loose ground.
A battery in a poor charging state that is forced to spin a starter will meet with a huge amount of resistance and cause wiring and battery to heat....if someone was to attempt multiple prolonged attempted starts then things start to melt.
All very good points. He needs to follow your lead.
Last edited by mud; 11-17-2018 at 02:08 PM.
#14
11-17-2018, 10:43 AM
Lets see,
You put this BRAND NEW battery in last week and went for a 5 mile ride.
Starter cranked slow out of the box with BRAND NEW battery but you assumed it was from sitting on a shelf.
Was battery ever placed on a charger, trickle charger, battery tender or anything similar?
TODAY, bike turned over slow but would not fire. You report that start switch was held down for 10 seconds during this attempt.
Why did you replace the the original battery?
Did you have the original OLD battery tested?
Did you check the charging system prior to original OLD battery replacement?
When the NEW battery was brought home...Did you test that NEW battery?
When NEW battery was installed...Did you test charging system?
You put this BRAND NEW battery in last week and went for a 5 mile ride.
Starter cranked slow out of the box with BRAND NEW battery but you assumed it was from sitting on a shelf.
Was battery ever placed on a charger, trickle charger, battery tender or anything similar?
TODAY, bike turned over slow but would not fire. You report that start switch was held down for 10 seconds during this attempt.
Why did you replace the the original battery?
Did you have the original OLD battery tested?
Did you check the charging system prior to original OLD battery replacement?
When the NEW battery was brought home...Did you test that NEW battery?
When NEW battery was installed...Did you test charging system?
#15
11-17-2018, 10:46 AM
I agree that, if you have a prayer of saving that battery, you're going to have to be able to dress the terminals so you can get a good, tight connection on each one. It might not be possible given the amount of damage they appear to have sustained. That amount of damage also points to damage to the lugs on the battery leads as well. Are you sure they are undamaged?
If the leads do not sit flush with the terminals when installed, this could well be the root of the problem.
If the leads do not sit flush with the terminals when installed, this could well be the root of the problem.
#16
11-17-2018, 10:48 AM
The following users liked this post:
Uncle Larry (11-17-2018)
#17
11-17-2018, 11:36 AM
Club Member
#18
11-17-2018, 11:55 AM
#19
11-17-2018, 11:57 AM
Outstanding HDF Member
(And proper charging prior to use)
Multi: Nice to see your red arrows... I haven't noticed them in a bit!
Last edited by F86; 11-17-2018 at 12:59 PM.
#20
11-17-2018, 12:22 PM
Join Date: Jan 2007
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For giggles and grins I looked up the Duracell battery for your bike and it called for a 20HL-BS or a 20HL battery, seems your battery is short a letter. I don't know what the difference is. Also agree on using the little shims that usually come with the battery. I also believe in putting the "new" battery on a smart charger till fully charged prior to installation and first start. If I may add one more bit of insight , a 5 mile ride is only putting a surface charge on the battery something a little longer will help the battery.