Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
As I mentioned, rear brake is NOT APPARENTLY important, rear brake is key and is #1 thing to think about when wheelie! Lifesaver and prevent you to tip over, not to hold you in balance point :P
I want to be political correct and gender mutual. I dont have any problem with my manhood when girls are better then me. Good for them! But then again, Ill let the genders speak for them self
I went with 13.5” rear and I may go to 14.25” soon, but I’m about 6’3”. As far as bars go, I’d suggest looking at risers and bars as opposed to t bars. This combo lets you fine tune the bar placement a bit better. Also when you switch brakes, look at getting some adapters to allow use of radial calipers. You can get a set of Tokicos really reasonable, or spend a bit more on something like Beringer or true Brembos.
I went with a pipe from Horsepower Inc, and I’m real happy with it.
What risers & bars did you use? Do you have any pics of the front of your bike? I like the height of my stock street bob mini apes and would want to start w/ that height. Would low riser bars w/ risers work? What height riser would you think that I need?
What risers & bars did you use? Do you have any pics of the front of your bike? I like the height of my stock street bob mini apes and would want to start w/ that height. Would low riser bars w/ risers work? What height riser would you think that I need?
They are Bare Knuckle Choppers 10” Strong Arm Risers and BKC 3.5” rise mx bars. I also used Alloy Art Gooden Tite bushings. Really happy with the setup. What works for you is hard to say. To get a good idea, sit on your bike and get your hands where you are most comfortable and have someone measure the rise, and width to the outside of each hand. That should help narrow it down some. I like separate bars and risers, as it lets you fine tune final hand position. I’m 6’3”ish and love my setup if that helps.
Your bike is so sick. What fork tubes are those? what are you running internally and how much of a difference do inverted forks make? I am currently looking to convert to mags and add dual discs to my bike. Just trying to figure out the best route to go. I would like to add brembo, tokio, or maybe even ness big brakes in the future. I need to research if a right side FXDL slider will work the best or if a set of FXDF sliders are better
right side fxdl slider all the day. Fat bob internals are diff.
And to answer your question rdub has a custom odc inverted setup valves to his weight and riding style. 3k front end there
Your bike is so sick. What fork tubes are those? what are you running internally and how much of a difference do inverted forks make? I am currently looking to convert to mags and add dual discs to my bike. Just trying to figure out the best route to go. I would like to add brembo, tokio, or maybe even ness big brakes in the future. I need to research if a right side FXDL slider will work the best or if a set of FXDF sliders are better
Thank you. My front end is the ODC Monza with their internals. There is no comparison with between this and the stock FXDLS suspension it replaced. It isn’t inexpensive though. The forks are around $3500, the 13” rotors are another $500-600, the calipers are around $800, new lines were around $400-500. If you go with a traditional front end, I’d recommend going with some radial caliper adapters such as the ones from Speed Merchant. and Tokico radial mount calipers as opposed to the Harley “Brembo” calipers that are axial mounted.
Radial mounted calipers are far far superior to axial mounted units.
Thank you. My front end is the ODC Monza with their internals. There is no comparison with between this and the stock FXDLS suspension it replaced. It isn’t inexpensive though. The forks are around $3500, the 13” rotors are another $500-600, the calipers are around $800, new lines were around $400-500. If you go with a traditional front end, I’d recommend going with some radial caliper adapters such as the ones from Speed Merchant. and Tokico radial mount calipers as opposed to the Harley “Brembo” calipers that are axial mounted.
Radial mounted calipers are far far superior to axial mounted units.
Just wondering, i know your inverted front end is up there with Kraus and Corsair. Do you know if inverted front ends can be done on the cheap. By cheap i mean 1k to 2k? I'm in no rush so i am wondering if i should just go with a inverted R1 or GXSR front end instead of my orginal plan. I see entire GXSR and R1 front ends up for sale often for 600$ to 1000$ range.
I know i woukd need new trees. Do you know what else would be needed?
Just wondering, i know your inverted front end is up there with Kraus and Corsair. Do you know if inverted front ends can be done on the cheap. By cheap i mean 1k to 2k? I'm in no rush so i am wondering if i should just go with a inverted R1 or GXSR front end instead of my orginal plan. I see entire GXSR and R1 front ends up for sale often for 600$ to 1000$ range.
I know i woukd need new trees. Do you know what else would be needed?
I can’t say how the sportbike front ends handle with the weight of a cruiser. I know there is a considerable weight difference. The overall effect, I can’t say. I’ve rode on Ohlins inverted, Gigastat inverted. Both are great, I just like the ODC a bit better.
As as far as what all is needed, you’ll need the trees, correct bearings to fit the axle, be able to make or source the needed spacers for the axle, calipers etc. I’m sure there will be some other odds and ends needed as well.
01-12-2019, 04:24 AM
