PLEASE HELP! Stator test results.
#1
PLEASE HELP! Stator test results.
What’s up guys ! Got a 2016 street bob!!
symptoms:
1. VINERR CODE
2. SOMETIMES HIGH IDLE
3. DIES COMING TO A STOP(very rare, 2 times in the last 4,000 miles)
What i I have done/results:
1. Tried swapping battery first! Brand new. Same issue.
2. Leaning towards faulty Regulator...swapped it out with a new one and still had hard start and vinerr code. Same issue. Mind you, I swapped back out with my old battery(load test said it was good)and considering the battery swap alone didn’t work I didn’t want to spend the money.
3. Thought since I have the new regulator on I will try it with the new battery as well. Bam. Everything seems great. Great start up, no VINNER code. Charge is great.
I did a 3 part STATOR TEST! Here are the results.
2016 FXDB, 3 phase..
GROUND TEST- PASS!!!
AC OUTPUT- PASS!!! Good numbers,
RESISTANCE- 0.6 ohms between all 3 wires. IS THIS OKAY???!! Seems high but the number are consistent.
I don’t want to destroy my new battery and new regulator; I also don’t want to buy a stator if I don’t need too. Thanks so much!
symptoms:
1. VINERR CODE
2. SOMETIMES HIGH IDLE
3. DIES COMING TO A STOP(very rare, 2 times in the last 4,000 miles)
What i I have done/results:
1. Tried swapping battery first! Brand new. Same issue.
2. Leaning towards faulty Regulator...swapped it out with a new one and still had hard start and vinerr code. Same issue. Mind you, I swapped back out with my old battery(load test said it was good)and considering the battery swap alone didn’t work I didn’t want to spend the money.
3. Thought since I have the new regulator on I will try it with the new battery as well. Bam. Everything seems great. Great start up, no VINNER code. Charge is great.
I did a 3 part STATOR TEST! Here are the results.
2016 FXDB, 3 phase..
GROUND TEST- PASS!!!
AC OUTPUT- PASS!!! Good numbers,
RESISTANCE- 0.6 ohms between all 3 wires. IS THIS OKAY???!! Seems high but the number are consistent.
I don’t want to destroy my new battery and new regulator; I also don’t want to buy a stator if I don’t need too. Thanks so much!
Last edited by toryhardin92; 08-08-2018 at 02:19 PM. Reason: Typo
#2
it sounds like your charging system is ok. as long as the resistance is equal, that ohms reading sounds ok. can not find in the service manual what the output voltage should be, I remember years back I had a Suzuki GS1000 that a stater failed, when removing, the insulation was all deteriorated, but the voltage specs were 75v output.
#3
it sounds like your charging system is ok. as long as the resistance is equal, that ohms reading sounds ok. can not find in the service manual what the output voltage should be, I remember years back I had a Suzuki GS1000 that a stater failed, when removing, the insulation was all deteriorated, but the voltage specs were 75v output.
thanks man. I think so too. Well considering my output puts at about that then I may have a concern. I have to find the service manual on it !
i may just swap it out for the hell of it.
i have seen over this forum that 0.1-0.2ohms is what you want. Anything higher is no good. I don’t know what bike spec this info is for though...
Last edited by toryhardin92; 08-08-2018 at 08:47 PM.
#4
#5
The problem with the dynas, even the 103s is that the battery is too small. I'd upgrade the battery cables first then make sure you have a version of the ECM software that opens the compression releases corectly. IIRC, this has been more of a problem with FXDLSs but it would not surprise me if the issue flows over into the other Dynas.
Once you get less then an ohm on a DMM, you really need a milliohm meter to measure resistance.
Once you get less then an ohm on a DMM, you really need a milliohm meter to measure resistance.
#6
and since my resistance between the wires are although equal, 0.6 is higher then 0.1-0.2.
#7
The problem with the dynas, even the 103s is that the battery is too small. I'd upgrade the battery cables first then make sure you have a version of the ECM software that opens the compression releases corectly. IIRC, this has been more of a problem with FXDLSs but it would not surprise me if the issue flows over into the other Dynas.
Once you get less then an ohm on a DMM, you really need a milliohm meter to measure resistance.
Once you get less then an ohm on a DMM, you really need a milliohm meter to measure resistance.
i will try and test again. I believe ACRs are active. Don’t have a problem with hot hard start. In fact it seems to start better when hot
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#8
YOU DO NOT want your stator to ground. OL is what you are looking for when testing your stator wires to ground.
#9
The newer Dynas seem to have the VINERR caused dring cranking, It's not uncommon. Mchad (IIRC) had a FXDLS that did it not sure what his fix was but I doubt it was changing issues. You can search here and go through what he did.
If the battery is going dead from sitting, you might want to look at the battery drain with the ignition off. Most good DMMs have a current mode where you can measure the drain on the battery with the ignition off. Don't try and start the bike or even trun the ignition on as it could blow the fuse in the DMM. Check the current draw with the DMM shoule ba less than 40 ma when ignition is off. These new bikes have the can buss mostly powered when the ignition is off.
I don't think the stalling or high idles are related to charging but more than likely related to a bad / sticking clutch switch. The ECM uses that information to reduce emissions and set idle so the bike don't stall.
The VINERR is likely from excessive / extended voltage drop when cranking. IMO it's a design issue with the bikes coupled with come manufacturing issues. I would check with your local HD dealer and see what they have to say. I would also make sure that all battery connections are good, All of the cables that carry power have good clean connections.. I would even go as far as to solder all the battery cable crimp connections to make sure they are good.
BTW you can do a simple charging test buy simply measuring the voltage across the battery. It should be at or above 14V with the motor running at 2000 rpm.
Other things you can try if all looks good is to replace the battery cables and go to a lithium ion battery.
If the battery is going dead from sitting, you might want to look at the battery drain with the ignition off. Most good DMMs have a current mode where you can measure the drain on the battery with the ignition off. Don't try and start the bike or even trun the ignition on as it could blow the fuse in the DMM. Check the current draw with the DMM shoule ba less than 40 ma when ignition is off. These new bikes have the can buss mostly powered when the ignition is off.
I don't think the stalling or high idles are related to charging but more than likely related to a bad / sticking clutch switch. The ECM uses that information to reduce emissions and set idle so the bike don't stall.
The VINERR is likely from excessive / extended voltage drop when cranking. IMO it's a design issue with the bikes coupled with come manufacturing issues. I would check with your local HD dealer and see what they have to say. I would also make sure that all battery connections are good, All of the cables that carry power have good clean connections.. I would even go as far as to solder all the battery cable crimp connections to make sure they are good.
BTW you can do a simple charging test buy simply measuring the voltage across the battery. It should be at or above 14V with the motor running at 2000 rpm.
Other things you can try if all looks good is to replace the battery cables and go to a lithium ion battery.
#10
The newer Dynas seem to have the VINERR caused dring cranking, It's not uncommon. Mchad (IIRC) had a FXDLS that did it not sure what his fix was but I doubt it was changing issues. You can search here and go through what he did.
If the battery is going dead from sitting, you might want to look at the battery drain with the ignition off. Most good DMMs have a current mode where you can measure the drain on the battery with the ignition off. Don't try and start the bike or even trun the ignition on as it could blow the fuse in the DMM. Check the current draw with the DMM shoule ba less than 40 ma when ignition is off. These new bikes have the can buss mostly powered when the ignition is off.
I don't think the stalling or high idles are related to charging but more than likely related to a bad / sticking clutch switch. The ECM uses that information to reduce emissions and set idle so the bike don't stall.
The VINERR is likely from excessive / extended voltage drop when cranking. IMO it's a design issue with the bikes coupled with come manufacturing issues. I would check with your local HD dealer and see what they have to say. I would also make sure that all battery connections are good, All of the cables that carry power have good clean connections.. I would even go as far as to solder all the battery cable crimp connections to make sure they are good.
BTW you can do a simple charging test buy simply measuring the voltage across the battery. It should be at or above 14V with the motor running at 2000 rpm.
Other things you can try if all looks good is to replace the battery cables and go to a lithium ion battery.
If the battery is going dead from sitting, you might want to look at the battery drain with the ignition off. Most good DMMs have a current mode where you can measure the drain on the battery with the ignition off. Don't try and start the bike or even trun the ignition on as it could blow the fuse in the DMM. Check the current draw with the DMM shoule ba less than 40 ma when ignition is off. These new bikes have the can buss mostly powered when the ignition is off.
I don't think the stalling or high idles are related to charging but more than likely related to a bad / sticking clutch switch. The ECM uses that information to reduce emissions and set idle so the bike don't stall.
The VINERR is likely from excessive / extended voltage drop when cranking. IMO it's a design issue with the bikes coupled with come manufacturing issues. I would check with your local HD dealer and see what they have to say. I would also make sure that all battery connections are good, All of the cables that carry power have good clean connections.. I would even go as far as to solder all the battery cable crimp connections to make sure they are good.
BTW you can do a simple charging test buy simply measuring the voltage across the battery. It should be at or above 14V with the motor running at 2000 rpm.
Other things you can try if all looks good is to replace the battery cables and go to a lithium ion battery.
thanks for all of that man! I will look into ignition switch.
It seems the new new regulator and battery solved my problem. I would like to dig deeper to make sure.
I use to cut on my plexus audio radio system before starting bike and I think that pulled just enough volts away from crank to give error.
the first time the bike stalled was in idle traffic leaving Chicago.... had my phone charging and my system blaring. I don’t think it was able to maintain steady voltage.
old regulator put out 14.1 at idle and at 2,000 rpms.
crank draw went down to 6/7volts but a new battery didn’t solve it. Had to replace battery and regulator as I said before.
new regulator puts out 14.4 at idle and 14.6 at 2,000 rpms..
also hold a LD a charge of 14.6-14.8 when the bike is off. Runs a lot better.
i don’t want to overlook to stator. If it is sound I will look at clutch switch and possible update for bike..
i dont hear the ACRS click but I never have an issue with hot hard starts so assuming that isn’t my problem.