I have heard that with the 96 motor when you up the power and run it hard that the right side crank bearing can walk out of the case. Harley supposedly has a fix where you insert two self tapping screws that grab the edge of the bearing and keep it in place.
Does anyone have any firm knowledge of this, any pictures or any part numbers for the screws?

Thanks.

 

J-E... I have never heard of such a "fix".

You sure you're not getting some terms mixed up... like "crank run-out"... instead of the crank bearing walking out?

There does exist the capability of the 96 crank to "scissor"... which will totally snafu your cam plate.. oil pump & plate. There is also the "timken bearing" conversion of the left side crank bearing.

This is the first I've heard anybody referring to the right side crank bearing 'walking' out of the block. Will be very interested in what others have heard.

 

The story came from a local Independent HD repair shop. He was stating the the 96 was made without a snap ring on the cam side main crank bearing. If you really spin a built motor the bearing can walk out and disaster results, he said that the HD dealers have self tapping screws that when ever he does a cam change he installs the screws for insurance reasons. I'll ask at my local HD dealer if they have the screws and have heard of this issue on built motors.

 

Thats all new to me. IMO I would never use a self tapping screw ANYWHERE in my engine. I dont care what its job would be.

 

I've been hearing more and more crankshaft horror stories of late. I haven't heard of what you're talking about, however, there is something similar on page 494 of the 2011 HD catalog. It's part number 34822-08.

 

There is a thread on the 120R where they talk about the bolts securing the bearing behind the cam plate.

 

Here it is.....
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/7645873-post97.html

 

Okay, so that is a bit different scenario than your first statement... which I interpreted as a stock 96". I suspect this as to do with the crank left/right sides being able to rotate just out of plane on a built up engine, (pressed pin) if the crank has not been trued and welded.

P/N: 34822-08 is the Timken bearing sleeve, which is offered under the SE badge for the Timken bearing upgrade. ... but I thought this was the upgrade to the left side bearing... the output shaft bearing.. since it is just a basic roller bearing.

Screwing in self tapping screws to keep a bearing from walking out... is a frigging bandaid and not a fix.

I think if you're going to be pushing your motor past the 100/100 mark, the bottom end should be built up first: crank trued and welded, timken bearing conversion and SE compensator. If you're not pushing those numbers, I think you have little to worry about.

I'll advise something else... I think the stock compensator leads to a lot of these supposed crank failures. That thing is a weak piece of crap.... I installed the SE compensator a little over two weeks ago, when I was also installing a chrome inner primary.... and although I've only got to ride it about 45 minutes since because of the weather... the bike starts, runs and shifts so much smoother than before.

 

Thanks for the information all, I won't be going past 100/100 but will be adding the SE compensator. When I go in to do the cams I'll take a look at the right side bearing and see if the case can be drilled and tapped at 3 and 9 o'clock to add the buttonheads.

 

So I got to thinking... why wouldn't the cam plate/oil pump keep the case bearing from walking out? In looking at my parts manual... I don't see where you can insert two screws so that the heads keep the bearing in.... that's where the oil pump mounts and covers that area.....