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Clutch cable replacement

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  #11  
Old 04-13-2011, 05:29 PM
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see i told ya i might be wrong!
 
  #12  
Old 04-14-2011, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541hog
Hey Rene

Is the easy-pull standard or did you install that? Did it make a big difference in the hand fatigue?
Hi Richard,
Kit was already there when I opened the clutch cover last week. My guess is that it must have been installed by the previous owner. Therefor I cannot answer your question if it makes any difference. Clutch is easy to operate though, IMO caused by the kit's extra leverage.

(The force applied (at end points of the lever) is proportional to the ratio of the length of the lever arm measured between the fulcrum (pivoting point) and application point of the force applied at each end of the lever.
Mathematically, this is expressed by M = Fd, where F is the force, d is the perpendicular distance between the force and the fulcrum, and M is the turning force known as the moment or torque.)


 
  #13  
Old 07-21-2011, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by FXD2003Rider
Hi Richard,
Kit was already there when I opened the clutch cover last week. My guess is that it must have been installed by the previous owner. Therefor I cannot answer your question if it makes any difference. Clutch is easy to operate though, IMO caused by the kit's extra leverage.

(The force applied (at end points of the lever) is proportional to the ratio of the length of the lever arm measured between the fulcrum (pivoting point) and application point of the force applied at each end of the lever.
Mathematically, this is expressed by M = Fd, where F is the force, d is the perpendicular distance between the force and the fulcrum, and M is the turning force known as the moment or torque.)


However, it looks like that extended arm also causes the cable to bend after entering the housing, so the added friction could negate some of the decreased clutch pull to be gained, plus it could also cause the cables to fray.
 
  #14  
Old 07-22-2011, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by dmayer
Magnum Shielding has a great website for ordering replacement cables. Just find the stock one for your bike and then specify how much longer or shorter it should be. The only tricky thing I encountered was actually getting the new cable to thread onto the transmission cover.
And I thought I was the only one - pulled off mine to install a shorter one, never been off from the factory and just 2000 miles on it - once I had the cable off the new one refused to start, looked in there and they threads where nearly flat top to bottom. Ended up getting a Drag cover as non of the dealers (even the big online ones) had any in stock. Went right on but I will add that its much easier to start if you disconnect the center adjuster so you're only working with one end of the cable. Maybe I will change it for a 103 cover one of these days.
 
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Old 07-22-2011, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by p51bombay
And I thought I was the only one - pulled off mine to install a shorter one, never been off from the factory and just 2000 miles on it - once I had the cable off the new one refused to start, looked in there and they threads where nearly flat top to bottom. Ended up getting a Drag cover as non of the dealers (even the big online ones) had any in stock. Went right on but I will add that its much easier to start if you disconnect the center adjuster so you're only working with one end of the cable. Maybe I will change it for a 103 cover one of these days.
Maybe I misunderstood but no need to undo the center of the cable when replacing a clutch cable. You connect the trans end first then route the cable to the hand control.
 
  #16  
Old 07-22-2011, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 8541hog
Maybe I misunderstood but no need to undo the center of the cable when replacing a clutch cable. You connect the trans end first then route the cable to the hand control.
There isn't a need to remove the center but it does make threading the cable to the cover easier because you aren't trying to spin the whole cable. WHat I found easiest what attaching the cable to the cover and then threading it under the engine and sliding the cover into place while guiding the top end up the frame.
 
  #17  
Old 07-22-2011, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by HemiOrange
...it looks like that extended arm also causes the cable to bend after entering the housing...plus it could also cause the cables to fray.
Randy,
I understand your concern; however the clutch cable I replaced has been on my bike for at least 50.000km and did not show any fray at all...
 
  #18  
Old 07-23-2011, 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by FXD2003Rider
Randy,
I understand your concern; however the clutch cable I replaced has been on my bike for at least 50.000km and did not show any fray at all...
Thanks for the reply and addressing my concern. That's a lot of mileage (kilometers) for what looked like a problem area.

What lube, if any, do you use on the cables?
 
  #19  
Old 07-23-2011, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by HemiOrange
Thanks for the reply and addressing my concern. That's a lot of mileage (kilometers) for what looked like a problem area.

What lube, if any, do you use on the cables?
I use engine oil from a squeeze bottle to apply a few drips into the clutch cable.

 
  #20  
Old 07-23-2011, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by FXD2003Rider
I use engine oil from a squeeze bottle to apply a few drips into the clutch cable.

Thanks for the reply! I was expecting dry lube, but you've certainly exceeded my expectations with your approach.
 


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