Tons you can do. Cams, heads , etc. Wood Cams make some of the best cams on the market. I had an older dyna with a 95 inch conversion and wood cams , heads , ignition carb etc. that bike was so fast I could barely hold on and almost came off the back of the bike numerous times.

 

Havent tried a different throttle body yet but I hear it makes a difference with the other mods you do.

 

Stop guessing, everything you just said is incorrect. 96" to 107" without splitting cases, anything bigger requires a tear down and milling.

You already have Stage 1 more air in, more air out and retune. Higher flow air cleaner (lots of choices), higher flowing (catless recommended) exhaust and either a download or aftermarket tuner (latter is best).

Cams (next), personally I'd do cams along with the above to start with. Headwork if you still feel the need, ... the list goes on from here but gets a lot more expensive per HP.

 

The 103 can be built to put out around 120/120 HP/TQ. It will take cams, head work, throttle body/injectors, exhaust, tuner and tune.

Once you get above the 100 HP mark, you should definitely consider upgrading your clutch and compensator. I bought the AIM VP clutch ($220) and the SE compensator ($250). Immediate improvement!

 

Send your heads out and a agressive Cam... Get stage 4 heads, Get a HPI 55mm Throttle Body, get a good cam Woods or Tmann, some injectors, nice exhaust and a good tune.. and your looking at 110-120HP and same in TQ.... Once I did that to my Dyna is when I really felt her wake up...

Once you get into anything bigger them a 107 you need to machine the cases and do some crank work etc etc.. It gets into a whole new price range at that point.. I am telling you get headwork and a cam and the other things I mentioned and you will be gtting the front wheel up...

 

Looks like Los11 and I did similar mods with similar results. Yes, it took all of that to actually feel it. Stage 1 did nothing but make the bike louder and about 10 MPH faster on top.

 

Not sure how requiring a tear down and milling makes everything I said incorrect. The 96" motor was designed to BE ABLE to go up to 120. Never said what you'd have to do to be able to do that. Note I didn't say with "JUST" cams/heads/pistons/cylinders...that one little word makes a big difference.

The OP never mentioned cost or amount of work as a factor and while for many of us cost may be an issue, perhaps to him it is not and thus I shouldn't filter suggestions based on nothing more than a preconceived limitation. Everyone else was suggesting heads, cams, and the other usual items and so thus I felt I should mention the displacement options. Unless there is some change in the 103 that would not allow the parts for the 110 or 120 upgrades for the 96" to work such as a different crank, bolt patters for the cylinders or push rod alignment I don't see why everything I said was wrong.

You'll also note I told him to research those options...

Now if there are reasons why a 110 or 120 kit won't work in a 103 just like it would in a 96 (meaning BOTH would require case modification), then by all means share the knowledge with us.

 

I'm droping my 2012 SG off monday to get a SE 103 stage 4 kit installed as well as dual disc brakes and suspension upgrades. Both the dealer and local chopper shop advised against spliting and boring stock cases. It's cheaper to buy a SE 120" crate motor.

 

JIMS 131" You'll have fun on that!

 

I raced a stg4 se103 fxdf during the Smokeout XII. I can tell you all I saw was his taillights. Guy was kind of an **** when I tried to talk to him about his engine work.

He was crossing the line in the 120mph neighborhood. I was ~90mph.