Lowering kits / Comfort
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 7,138
Likes: 26
From: Southern Oregon
If your only concern is flatfooting when stopped, you will be much better off going and buying some very thick soled boots to give you an extra inch or 2. IF that isn't enough, you can throw some Dr Schols inserts in them also.
As mentioned - Lowering a bike is for looks only and will negatively affect ride and performance.
As mentioned - Lowering a bike is for looks only and will negatively affect ride and performance.
You could always buy the new road queen... lol
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Stiperstones
The extra travel will now be at a steeper angle. The actual rear wheel travel may not be much (or any) more; it may even be less.
If you can find a longer shock with enough travel to achieve what you want; you may have other problems. The only way to get more suspension movement while keeping the seat height the same is for compression of the suspension to put the wheel further into the fender. As others have said: this isn't a great idea.
The short travel of the 11" shocks is intentional: it's necessary to prevent clearance problems. It's possible to make an 11" shock with quite a bit more travel; just not safe in this application.
If you're not convinced, and still want to try it: check first:
- Establish the eye to eye measurment between the shock mounting points at which the rear tyre starts rubbing the fender (or the wiring), or anything hard hits. To do this take both shocks off (with the bike and rear wheel properly supported, obviously) then raise the rear wheel, checking continuously.
. - Then try your shock / lowering block combo on one side only (nothing on the other side). This is so that when you sit on the bike, your weight is enough to compress the suspension to full compression. Get a friend to measure the shock eye to eye length at this point.
Last edited by Gamble Gold; Sep 26, 2011 at 03:52 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 3
From: West New york, NJ
Don't listen to the guys complaining of the geometry changing with blocks. They are not engineers and it does not affect the travel or performance. The issue on shock travel is true though. A 13" shock will have more travel. If you use blocks, it will still want to travel the same and you don't have that room any more. It will bottom out. It will probably be fine solo riding, but you can forget about 2-up. I put the 1.75" blocks on my 13.6" shocks. I have had no problems solo with the shocks set on 4 or 5 and I am 270 lbs. 2-up can be done, but I have had to relocate my wiring and bottom out occasionally. I guess if you and your 2-up passenger are under 300 lbs. You might be ok. I took mine off. I prefer to take the preload down a notch to have a better ride and no bottoming out.
Last edited by JohnC FXDX; Sep 26, 2011 at 05:24 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Stiperstones
Ah, but it does affect the travel. The shock moves the same amount, but the wheel moves less. Say you have a 12˝" shock with, for example, 2˝" of travel in the shock. That shock is at an angle of, maybe, 30° to the vertical. The 2˝" of travel in the shock translates into about 2.15" of vertical movement of the rear wheel.
Now put on a 1ž" lowering block. The shock is now at an angle of around 44° to the vertical, and the vertical movement of the rear wheel is then reduced to about 1.81".
Compared to a shorter shock without lowering brackets, that's both good and bad. The seat is about the same height as with 11" shocks and no lowering brackets. The 11" shock may have a travel of only 1.36" (1.11" vertically). So, you have 0.7" more vertical travel of the wheel (good). OTOH, the wheel is going 0.7" further up into the fender, and maybe hitting stuff (bad).
The example travel figures are taken from Progressives technical spec sheets. These days they limit the travel of their 11" shocks specifically to reduce clearance problems. Looking back at the spec sheets for a few years ago, 11" shocks typically had a travel of 1.9" or more (note: this is more than the 12˝" shock with the lowering brackets).
Now put on a 1ž" lowering block. The shock is now at an angle of around 44° to the vertical, and the vertical movement of the rear wheel is then reduced to about 1.81".
Compared to a shorter shock without lowering brackets, that's both good and bad. The seat is about the same height as with 11" shocks and no lowering brackets. The 11" shock may have a travel of only 1.36" (1.11" vertically). So, you have 0.7" more vertical travel of the wheel (good). OTOH, the wheel is going 0.7" further up into the fender, and maybe hitting stuff (bad).
The example travel figures are taken from Progressives technical spec sheets. These days they limit the travel of their 11" shocks specifically to reduce clearance problems. Looking back at the spec sheets for a few years ago, 11" shocks typically had a travel of 1.9" or more (note: this is more than the 12˝" shock with the lowering brackets).
Last edited by Gamble Gold; Oct 15, 2011 at 02:53 AM.
Devil's Advocate
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 36
From: Alberta, Canada
I am looking at a set of lowering blocks. With them changing the angle of the shocks, do they do any damage? Screw up the suspension? Give a stiffer, bumpier ride?
Other than lowering the bike, do they give any benefit or take anything away?
Other than lowering the bike, do they give any benefit or take anything away?
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Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
From: California
I still wouldn't use lowering locks, but it's a Harley, not a race bike. I didn't say you couldn't, shouldn't, or won't. As mentioned, changing the suspension components and geometry will have an effect on the ride and travel, but you may not notice it depending on how you ride and your experience level. It's your ride, so do as you please. Most lowering blocks have an area that contact the swingarm and may rub the paint, so if you ever remove them they may leave behind a small mark or two if looks are a concern. Enjoy the ride!
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,382
Likes: 4
From: Kennewick, WA
Hello all I now have 11" shocks on on 07 FXDB and I love lowered looks . but it is not the most comfiortable ride
I am 5.7 and 30" inseam so 12"stock shocks makes it a bit to get flat foot
I was thinking of investing in a realy good pair of something like a Ricor at 13" with a 1.75 lowering kit Or a 12.5
You get the idea
I want to bike to float ....
Any thoughts on a set up like this ?
Thanks
I am 5.7 and 30" inseam so 12"stock shocks makes it a bit to get flat foot
I was thinking of investing in a realy good pair of something like a Ricor at 13" with a 1.75 lowering kit Or a 12.5
You get the idea
I want to bike to float ....
Any thoughts on a set up like this ?
Thanks
I went with 13.5" Ricors, but I thought that Ohlins were twice the price. I recall Mud switching from Ohlins to Ricors at one time and preferring the Ricors, I don't know what he has now, but they are both very close.
Personally, if the price were the same, I'd look at the Ohlins. On the other hand, I'd also look at Ricor's site and check out their Baja buggy racing video. The way their inertia suspension handles the whoops is phenomenal and is what sold me on their products. I really think that they know what they're doing.