Dyna Forward Controls Kit Price
#1
Dyna Forward Controls Kit Price
I'm looking to swap out the mid controls on my Dyna Street Bob with forward controls. The price from the HD dealer run about $350 for the kit. Has anyone negotiated a lower price from them? Or anyone know of any place that sells the kits for less?
Thanks
CW
Thanks
CW
#5
Real "Bikers" don't need no forward controls .
#7
Trending Topics
#8
I got my bike in the summer of 06, it came with mids, I "thought" all bikes should have forward controls because they look more cool. Finally last year put my mids back on and sold the forwards on the classifieds on here. I think I have more control of my bike, even with the apes. I added the highway peg kit from HD and use them to stretch out. I guess thats why there is 2 mounting positions in the frame, different preferences.
#10
Info below, click on the below 's for more info.
.......
Look up part numbers from the first three links below, check eBay or order from Zanotti's or Chicago Harley Davidson. (Zanotti's and Chicago Harley Davidson give at least 20% off parts and accessories including aftermarket parts.)
Original Part Numbers (Parts that originally came on your bike):
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....m_oem/hdmc.asp
Find your year, model, part, then put a 1 in the qty box of the item or items that you want the part number of, then click on "add items to parts list", then click on "send to cart" to get the part number.
Genuine Motor Accessories Part Numbers (chrome, etc.):
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Motor Clothes Merchandise Part Numbers (jackets, boots, etc.):
http://www.harley-davidson.com/mcm/m...bmLocale=en_US
Add /_ _ _ _ for size of an article of clothing after the part number when doing a search on Zanotti's or Chicago Harley Davidson's website's?
small........................./000S
medium..................../000M
large........................./000L
xlarge......................./002L
xxlarge...................../022L
000's are zero's not letters
Zanotti's:
https://shop.zanottimotor.com/
Chicago Harley Davidson:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/advanced_search.php
Ebay:
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/Motorcyc...y%252DDavidson
Original Part Numbers (Parts that originally came on your bike):
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....m_oem/hdmc.asp
Find your year, model, part, then put a 1 in the qty box of the item or items that you want the part number of, then click on "add items to parts list", then click on "send to cart" to get the part number.
Genuine Motor Accessories Part Numbers (chrome, etc.):
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Motor Clothes Merchandise Part Numbers (jackets, boots, etc.):
http://www.harley-davidson.com/mcm/m...bmLocale=en_US
Add /_ _ _ _ for size of an article of clothing after the part number when doing a search on Zanotti's or Chicago Harley Davidson's website's?
small........................./000S
medium..................../000M
large........................./000L
xlarge......................./002L
xxlarge...................../022L
000's are zero's not letters
Zanotti's:
https://shop.zanottimotor.com/
Chicago Harley Davidson:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/advanced_search.php
Ebay:
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/Motorcyc...y%252DDavidson
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions says you have to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A) with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06) that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level angle, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
(You may have to change the rear transmission shift lever only if your using the 2006 and up kit and have a hard time finding neutral. This is caused by a longer front shift lever on the 2006 and up kits which in turn will take less movement of your foot to change gears or go into neutral.)
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/advanced_search.php
https://shop.zanottimotor.com/
Photos below of the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A)
with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)
The 2006 and up kit instructions says you have to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A) with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06) that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level angle, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
(You may have to change the rear transmission shift lever only if your using the 2006 and up kit and have a hard time finding neutral. This is caused by a longer front shift lever on the 2006 and up kits which in turn will take less movement of your foot to change gears or go into neutral.)
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/advanced_search.php
https://shop.zanottimotor.com/
Photos below of the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A)
with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)