I bled the system again, putting almost a quart in the MC. I can now get some braking (at the rear brake) after pumping the pedal. After all the frustration I bought a vacuum pump and will try to re-bleed again. I hope this works.

I have checked and re-checked the rear brake system, rods etc. I have forwards. Can't bend my knees enough for mids.

And yes, Wireguided, I am bleeding the correct caliper/MC.

Yeah Gringoloco, bleeding brakes is a pain, but I have some aptitude after 6 years wrenching on c5 engines. Always hated hydraulics though. Pain in the back of my front. Absent a problem with the MC, I must be getting air back into the system.

Thank you all for your advise and suggestions.

I will let you know how the pump works.

 

On some occasions I have had difficulty bleeding m/c brakes, usually the front because of the. Ertical brake lines. I have been able to resolve the issue by reverse bleeding them. I used a syringe and forced the fluid in from the caliper. In that case I could actually see the bubbles going up into the master cylinder.

 

Hey DCLXVI:

I bought a vacum pump and bled the rear brake enough to change the fluid twice. Both times - no air in the line - but same dam problem.

I will put together a rig like you describe and see how that works. I dunno, I am suspecting it is the MC plunger. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

 

I've had this issue and have helped a few friends with the same problem before. This is what has worked the best, every time, for me. Get a set of these for all calipers...

http://www.speedbleeder.zoovy.com/c=...d-Bleeder.html

Re-bleed rear brake. Take a heavy object like a cinder block, wrap it in a towel and place it in the brake pedal over night. The pressure created in the brake line will compress what little air remains in the line and will force it to the highest point in the rear brake line system (or front system). The following morning open and close the bleed screw ONE TIME. DO NOT remove the block until after you have opened and closed the bleed screw. Remove the block, top off the MC and you should be good to go.

For front brake bleeding, follow the same steps, using zip tie to hold down the brake leaver overnight.

Good luck

 

Sounds like a leak, is the caliper ok? Is it leaking from behind the piston boot? Is the plunger bad on the mc? It may not leak fluid from the mc but it may suck air back into the mc when the pedal is pressed and released.

 

Lostsoul: Thanks for the suggestion. I will try it and get back to you. I agree, the speed bleeders look like a thing to have; simplyfies the process, but by the time they get here I will have fixed the problem or had a terrible crash....

Hooligan: I checked the MC and everything looks good. I have not ruled out MC issues though, but will try Lostsoul's suggestion first before tearing the MC apart. Your point of sucking air at the plunger is valid. How would I check to see if that is what is happening. Hopefully not removing the MC.

Thanks

 

You could always pull the boot back and put some axle grease on the plunger rod (externally) and see if it improves. Axle grease is not a requirement but you would need a thick grease. The other thing would be to pull the cap off and pump the pedal to see if it gets any bubbles. Insure your gasket is seated properly also.

 

I had that happen to mine.

What happens if you pump the pedal while moving?
A warped rotor would 'push' on the pads and move the piston back to the master cylinder. The next time you hit the pedal - it goes to the floor.

 

Baeseman1, I am intrigued. What caused your problem and how did you resolve it?

After going through over a quart of fluid bleeding this female dog I now pump the rear and get a miniscul feel of braking. I don't think my rotor is warped. I will look at that though.

Thanks for the info. Look forward to hearing back from you.

 

hooligan13, I do not get any bubbles when pumping the pedal (with the MC cover off, of course). What would the grease do???