03 fxdl progressive front fork spring swap questions
#12
#13
#14
Called their tech support and it looks like with the cap off and the forks fully extended (bike jacked up obviously) put the new spring in then the washer then the spacer. And the spacer should stick out of the fork about 3/4 to 1/2 inch. 3/4 giving you a slightly stiffer ride then the 1/2 inch. Sound like what you did Old Mike?
#15
Called their tech support and it looks like with the cap off and the forks fully extended (bike jacked up obviously) put the new spring in then the washer then the spacer. And the spacer should stick out of the fork about 3/4 to 1/2 inch. 3/4 giving you a slightly stiffer ride then the 1/2 inch. Sound like what you did Old Mike?
#19
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Central, North Carolina
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A trick I learned back in my sport-touring days is to mark the fork caps with a felt tip pen to indicate where the threads start to mate up with the fork tubes (when the old springs are already removed). Having this alignment really makes it a lot easier to get the caps started back on without a lot of unnecessary turning while getting everything back together.
I'll probably switch to progressive lowering springs this winter to take an inch out of the front and refill with #10 oil.
Y'all ride safe.
I'll probably switch to progressive lowering springs this winter to take an inch out of the front and refill with #10 oil.
Y'all ride safe.
#20
Sounds like a good idea. I had to order the socket today and the dyna jack adaptors for my sears red MC jack. So when then all gets here i will get started.
Btw. The book says the stock fork oil is type E. but can't find any reference to the
Weight that is used at the factory. Guess I will just get 10wt and call it a day
Btw. The book says the stock fork oil is type E. but can't find any reference to the
Weight that is used at the factory. Guess I will just get 10wt and call it a day