Handy items to have when switching bars?
 

Hey guys, I got my bars coming in tomorrow but probably won't have them on for a bit since I'm going to go ahead and get new levers and grips. My question is what other this and that items should I have on hand when changing out my bars like new gaskets / washers / lubricants / grease?

I'd like to have everything on hand pretty much before I start this project and want to get it all done right the first time. My bike is new with 500 or less miles on it ( damn the weather ) so nothing should be worn out just yet.

Also when doing the bar change, does it need to be on a stand or lifted?

Thanks folks.

Hard to say...tools, manual, oil (you will loose some when you change the clutch cable). Jacked is an option but not necessary...changing the bars with the bike on the jiffy stand works also...it seems to me that if you change the clutch cable with the bike level on the jack, you will loose more oil than if you change it on the jiffy stand. I lost around 1/4 cup of oil when I changed mine. I had to pull my fuel tank so I had to replace fuel lines but mine is not new and I went back with new hoses and better clamps.

If your going to internlly wire the new bars I would pick up a $10. molex tool. Many will say you can just use a paper clip or something else, but it made taking the wires out of the molex connectors very simple.

I also found it easiest to suspend the old bars from the ceiling. That way you can put on the new bars and transfer everything over and not have to worry about any brake fluid spilling on your paint. I also cover the bike with a moving pad.

Some people like to change out the bushings to polyurathene but I decided not to.
You should use a torque wrench, loctite, and make sure you have all the proper sockets. Also put in a cardboard spacer between the brake lever and the little switch.

Not sure if the wires are internal or not, but if you're internally wiring, plan on the stuff you need to solder and insulate or tools to remove/reinsert pins into connectors. I bar change is pretty easy. Take before photos for a reference in case you have issues or delays and need a reminder.

Pay special attention to the throttle cable brass fittings that attach to the twist grip. Those things have a tendency to travel great distances and are nearly impossible to find if the drop and bounce/roll. Don't ask me how I know.

Got the manual, got torx sockets ( hopefully have all the right sizes if not no biggy I can buy them ). Good on the torque wrench except I think I need to buy a smaller one for inches. Almost forgot about the bushings, I'll have to add that to my list as well.

Good call on the oil, is that gear oil?

I read in the manual having to drain the brake fluid, sounds like I should pick up a bottle of that as well? When disconnecting the gas tank, am I going to lose any anywhere, should I be expecting it?

I have used a short piece of small brass tubing from a RC hobby shop for this back in my avionics days...not too hard to find the right size if there is a RC hobby store handy.

Bars are wired internal and plan on running them again, thanks for heads up .. something always ends up getting dropped heh, lucky my garage isn't too cluttered but will take extra care to not drop something.

The dealer I bought my bike from told me that they serviced the engine, tranny, and primary with the same synthetic oil they put in the engine and that is what they sold me when I picked up the stuff I needed to change my bars over, and that is what I used.

I also removed my tank so I had to drain it and there is no such thing as a totally empty fuel tank...when I pulled the cross-over fuel line, I got a small fuel spill...If you drain the tank, a small hand vacuum pump is a handy thing to have. And, bleeding the brakes was a BITCH! The most difficult brake bleeding job I have ever had...and that includes a buttload of different airplanes starting with F-14s

Are you going to have to change the brake line? If so, you will need to drain the brake fluid.

if you have to drain the brake fluid...pick up a couple speed bleeders...I think you can even get them at the auto parts store

I'm assuming I'll have to, it would be nice if I didn't but they are going to be 16" tbar style bars vs the OEM mini apes .. I think they are 10 or 12? 2013 bob.