Handy items to have when switching bars?
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 398
Likes: 4
From: Lumberton, TX
Handy items to have when switching bars?
Hey guys, I got my bars coming in tomorrow but probably won't have them on for a bit since I'm going to go ahead and get new levers and grips. My question is what other this and that items should I have on hand when changing out my bars like new gaskets / washers / lubricants / grease?
I'd like to have everything on hand pretty much before I start this project and want to get it all done right the first time. My bike is new with 500 or less miles on it ( damn the weather ) so nothing should be worn out just yet.
Also when doing the bar change, does it need to be on a stand or lifted?
Thanks folks.
I'd like to have everything on hand pretty much before I start this project and want to get it all done right the first time. My bike is new with 500 or less miles on it ( damn the weather ) so nothing should be worn out just yet.
Also when doing the bar change, does it need to be on a stand or lifted?
Thanks folks.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
Hard to say...tools, manual, oil (you will loose some when you change the clutch cable). Jacked is an option but not necessary...changing the bars with the bike on the jiffy stand works also...it seems to me that if you change the clutch cable with the bike level on the jack, you will loose more oil than if you change it on the jiffy stand. I lost around 1/4 cup of oil when I changed mine. I had to pull my fuel tank so I had to replace fuel lines but mine is not new and I went back with new hoses and better clamps.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,477
Likes: 5
From: New Braunfels, Texas
If your going to internlly wire the new bars I would pick up a $10. molex tool. Many will say you can just use a paper clip or something else, but it made taking the wires out of the molex connectors very simple.
I also found it easiest to suspend the old bars from the ceiling. That way you can put on the new bars and transfer everything over and not have to worry about any brake fluid spilling on your paint. I also cover the bike with a moving pad.
Some people like to change out the bushings to polyurathene but I decided not to.
You should use a torque wrench, loctite, and make sure you have all the proper sockets. Also put in a cardboard spacer between the brake lever and the little switch.
I also found it easiest to suspend the old bars from the ceiling. That way you can put on the new bars and transfer everything over and not have to worry about any brake fluid spilling on your paint. I also cover the bike with a moving pad.
Some people like to change out the bushings to polyurathene but I decided not to.
You should use a torque wrench, loctite, and make sure you have all the proper sockets. Also put in a cardboard spacer between the brake lever and the little switch.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 1
From: Republic of Texas
Not sure if the wires are internal or not, but if you're internally wiring, plan on the stuff you need to solder and insulate or tools to remove/reinsert pins into connectors. I bar change is pretty easy. Take before photos for a reference in case you have issues or delays and need a reminder.
Pay special attention to the throttle cable brass fittings that attach to the twist grip. Those things have a tendency to travel great distances and are nearly impossible to find if the drop and bounce/roll. Don't ask me how I know.
Pay special attention to the throttle cable brass fittings that attach to the twist grip. Those things have a tendency to travel great distances and are nearly impossible to find if the drop and bounce/roll. Don't ask me how I know.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 398
Likes: 4
From: Lumberton, TX
Hard to say...tools, manual, oil (you will loose some when you change the clutch cable). Jacked is an option but not necessary...changing the bars with the bike on the jiffy stand works also...it seems to me that if you change the clutch cable with the bike level on the jack, you will loose more oil than if you change it on the jiffy stand. I lost around 1/4 cup of oil when I changed mine. I had to pull my fuel tank so I had to replace fuel lines but mine is not new and I went back with new hoses and better clamps.
If your going to internlly wire the new bars I would pick up a $10. molex tool. Many will say you can just use a paper clip or something else, but it made taking the wires out of the molex connectors very simple.
I also found it easiest to suspend the old bars from the ceiling. That way you can put on the new bars and transfer everything over and not have to worry about any brake fluid spilling on your paint. I also cover the bike with a moving pad.
Some people like to change out the bushings to polyurathene but I decided not to.
You should use a torque wrench, loctite, and make sure you have all the proper sockets. Also put in a cardboard spacer between the brake lever and the little switch.
I also found it easiest to suspend the old bars from the ceiling. That way you can put on the new bars and transfer everything over and not have to worry about any brake fluid spilling on your paint. I also cover the bike with a moving pad.
Some people like to change out the bushings to polyurathene but I decided not to.
You should use a torque wrench, loctite, and make sure you have all the proper sockets. Also put in a cardboard spacer between the brake lever and the little switch.
Good call on the oil, is that gear oil?
I read in the manual having to drain the brake fluid, sounds like I should pick up a bottle of that as well? When disconnecting the gas tank, am I going to lose any anywhere, should I be expecting it?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
I have used a short piece of small brass tubing from a RC hobby shop for this back in my avionics days...not too hard to find the right size if there is a RC hobby store handy.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 398
Likes: 4
From: Lumberton, TX
Bars are wired internal and plan on running them again, thanks for heads up .. something always ends up getting dropped heh, lucky my garage isn't too cluttered but will take extra care to not drop something.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
Got the manual, got torx sockets ( hopefully have all the right sizes if not no biggy I can buy them ). Good on the torque wrench except I think I need to buy a smaller one for inches. Almost forgot about the bushings, I'll have to add that to my list as well.
Good call on the oil, is that gear oil?
I read in the manual having to drain the brake fluid, sounds like I should pick up a bottle of that as well? When disconnecting the gas tank, am I going to lose any anywhere, should I be expecting it?
Good call on the oil, is that gear oil?
I read in the manual having to drain the brake fluid, sounds like I should pick up a bottle of that as well? When disconnecting the gas tank, am I going to lose any anywhere, should I be expecting it?
I also removed my tank so I had to drain it and there is no such thing as a totally empty fuel tank...when I pulled the cross-over fuel line, I got a small fuel spill...If you drain the tank, a small hand vacuum pump is a handy thing to have. And, bleeding the brakes was a BITCH! The most difficult brake bleeding job I have ever had...and that includes a buttload of different airplanes starting with F-14s
Are you going to have to change the brake line? If so, you will need to drain the brake fluid.
Last edited by skinman13; Feb 11, 2013 at 06:03 PM.
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