Starter won't disengage! 2005 Super Glide
#21
10-07-2013, 07:11 PM
Well it is very important, we just do not throw parts/money at a problem.
This tells us where the starter is getting its signal to start.
The ignition sends juice to the start switch then to the start relay then to the starter solenoid.
Shutting off the ignition switch kills the signal so you know that is something in the starter switch or relay.
If killing the ignition had not killed the starter then you know that the starter solenoid on the starter has welded itself closed.
Looks like you have fried the fuse box, also want to check the big wire going to the starter from the battery, it is probably fried also.
Also check your starter relay.
Like rip said the way to check everything after you replace the switch it is to unhook the starter from the battery then hook up the hot wire that runs to the fuse box to that battery wire and start running down circuits.
Good luck hope you know how to read a schematic.
This tells us where the starter is getting its signal to start.
The ignition sends juice to the start switch then to the start relay then to the starter solenoid.
Shutting off the ignition switch kills the signal so you know that is something in the starter switch or relay.
If killing the ignition had not killed the starter then you know that the starter solenoid on the starter has welded itself closed.
Looks like you have fried the fuse box, also want to check the big wire going to the starter from the battery, it is probably fried also.
Also check your starter relay.
Like rip said the way to check everything after you replace the switch it is to unhook the starter from the battery then hook up the hot wire that runs to the fuse box to that battery wire and start running down circuits.
Good luck hope you know how to read a schematic.
#22
10-07-2013, 07:17 PM
Most people seem to agree on the switch. I'll try that first. My battery has no juice from all the cranking though, so I need to charge it first to keep testing.
Also, in one of the last cranks before the battery went dead, the bike started and ran, then that horrible whirring noise came back, so I tapped the handlebar switch and the noise went away! This makes me believe that it's definitely the handlebar switch that's gone south. Also, smoke came from that same switch
it definitely worried me.
In the meantime I removed all the fuses and found this:
That can't be normal!
Also, in one of the last cranks before the battery went dead, the bike started and ran, then that horrible whirring noise came back, so I tapped the handlebar switch and the noise went away! This makes me believe that it's definitely the handlebar switch that's gone south. Also, smoke came from that same switch
it definitely worried me. In the meantime I removed all the fuses and found this:
That can't be normal!
That fuse block looks pretty bad. Unless you can replace and secure those contacts you may never get good circuit integrity... Best choice response is to replace it all...switches and fuse block...then inspect and clean all the other exposed connectors just in case...something downstream of those circuits pulled a lot more current than it was designed to in order to burn that fuse block like that. A good starting place is that switch you saw smoking...
#23
10-07-2013, 10:21 PM
That fuse block looks pretty bad. Unless you can replace and secure those contacts you may never get good circuit integrity... Best choice response is to replace it all...switches and fuse block...then inspect and clean all the other exposed connectors just in case...something downstream of those circuits pulled a lot more current than it was designed to in order to burn that fuse block like that. A good starting place is that switch you saw smoking...
Last December, I ditched my bike's ape hangers for z-bars. I convinced my friends to help me do the internal wiring, but it was far more difficult than I thought. It turns out the the sharp angles of the "Z" shape made some of the wires come out without the insulation on the other end, which in the long run I think is what causing this problem.
So now, besides undoing the switch wiring, I also will have to undo the entire handlebar wiring, and run it through the outside to avoid the risk of wires making contact with each other, pulling too much current and wreaking havoc on the electrical system...lesson learned.
#24
10-08-2013, 06:04 AM
Outstanding HDF Member
#25
10-08-2013, 06:49 AM
Thank you for your observation. Now that you mention the excess current causing the burning, I think I might know what the problem is.
Last December, I ditched my bike's ape hangers for z-bars. I convinced my friends to help me do the internal wiring, but it was far more difficult than I thought. It turns out the the sharp angles of the "Z" shape made some of the wires come out without the insulation on the other end, which in the long run I think is what causing this problem.
So now, besides undoing the switch wiring, I also will have to undo the entire handlebar wiring, and run it through the outside to avoid the risk of wires making contact with each other, pulling too much current and wreaking havoc on the electrical system...lesson learned.
Last December, I ditched my bike's ape hangers for z-bars. I convinced my friends to help me do the internal wiring, but it was far more difficult than I thought. It turns out the the sharp angles of the "Z" shape made some of the wires come out without the insulation on the other end, which in the long run I think is what causing this problem.
So now, besides undoing the switch wiring, I also will have to undo the entire handlebar wiring, and run it through the outside to avoid the risk of wires making contact with each other, pulling too much current and wreaking havoc on the electrical system...lesson learned.
#26
10-08-2013, 06:51 AM
I was wondering the same thing about the fuses...although it could be that the excess current draw was just under the amp rating of the fuse so it acted more like a heater than a circuit breaker. You would also see this if the circuit shorting has been going on for some time...
#27
10-08-2013, 08:55 AM
I was wondering the same thing about the fuses...although it could be that the excess current draw was just under the amp rating of the fuse so it acted more like a heater than a circuit breaker. You would also see this if the circuit shorting has been going on for some time...
#28
10-09-2013, 04:21 PM
Further advancements:
Bike is still down.
1. When I turn the key, I get strong headlight (high and low), tail lights, and horn. However there's no neutral, no odometer, no engine check light...
2. I thought the battery was low from all the previous cranking (since now it doesn't even try to turn over the engine as it used to) but when I checked the battery on my mother's car, it turns out the voltage is pretty much the same (12-ish volts) so the battery might not be dead after all right?
3. Now I have to get a starter relay from a friend's Dyna and see if that is what's broken. Checking the starter relay is the one thing I haven't done (how does one know if it's gone bad or not?)
Thank you all for your help so far! It's been a great/terrible learning experience!
Bike is still down.
1. When I turn the key, I get strong headlight (high and low), tail lights, and horn. However there's no neutral, no odometer, no engine check light...
2. I thought the battery was low from all the previous cranking (since now it doesn't even try to turn over the engine as it used to) but when I checked the battery on my mother's car, it turns out the voltage is pretty much the same (12-ish volts) so the battery might not be dead after all right?
3. Now I have to get a starter relay from a friend's Dyna and see if that is what's broken. Checking the starter relay is the one thing I haven't done (how does one know if it's gone bad or not?)
Thank you all for your help so far! It's been a great/terrible learning experience!
#29
10-09-2013, 07:09 PM
Have you checked the voltage coming from your start switch? 12V when pressed and only when pressed. Your relay is only a big "switch" that should only send voltage to your starter when it gets the signal from your start button. You have the 12V signal signal from your start button first. Start there. Also when cranking, check to see what the voltage drops down to on your battery.
Last edited by Robbie13; 10-09-2013 at 07:18 PM.
#30
10-09-2013, 08:06 PM
Outstanding HDF Member
Where do I start, first go to a auto parts store and pick up a ice pick current tester, it works best for running down circuits because it can get into small places that a VOM cant. It has a bulb in the handle and a ground wire.
They are like ten bucks and trust me you are going to need it.
Then check and see if you have juice to the ignition fuse, pull the fuse out a little and just touch the spade with the ice pick, check both sides. they should both be hot.
Check all the fuses this way.
I really doubt that the problem is in the starter relay.
Do you have a manual with a schematic?
!2.6 volts is plenty for testing.
They are like ten bucks and trust me you are going to need it.
Then check and see if you have juice to the ignition fuse, pull the fuse out a little and just touch the spade with the ice pick, check both sides. they should both be hot.
Check all the fuses this way.
I really doubt that the problem is in the starter relay.
Do you have a manual with a schematic?
!2.6 volts is plenty for testing.
Last edited by Harleycruiser; 10-09-2013 at 08:09 PM.