Good choice! Its interesting that some with 57's say they want more low end yet are running larger baffles.

Also per Durwoods recommendation, I went from 2" Fullsac to 1.75's but only for noise reduction. The low end felt good already. The 1.75's also provided a bit more sop low end. You will feel the diff!

 

yea i actualy bought the mufflers before i knew any better an b4 i had the 57’s

 

looks like your VE tables are too lean at WOT ....if you look at where it starts to climb ...look down at the AFR at that rpm ...it starts to richen up at the same point ....need to increase the VE ....or the AFR to 13.0 at that rpm and above ...and retard the timing at that point about 2-3 degrees and test again ...but you must retest at the same rpm and gear each time to see the results ...move timing up or down until the bike jumps and keeps pulling ...this is not a pipe issue !!!

it will make a little more further up also ...if you increase the AFR in the higher rpm too ...14 is way too lean at 4000-6000 rpm !!! should be down in the 12.9 area !!!
it starts falling off as soon as the afr starts leaning out at 35-4000 ...needs more fuel ...higher flow ...wants more fuel !!! you must get the timing AND the afr correct for the motor to pull like it should ...if you notice ...where the afr is richer ...in the 12.9-13 ...the motor is pulling ...everywhere its lean ...it's not !!!

these so called dyno tuners are the problem with the "dips" in all these dyno charts ...they will not take the time needed to find the correct timing and afr needed ...everyone thinks it's the pipe ...its not a pipe problem ...it;s a tuner problem !!!

change the pipes ...and i bet you;ll have the same issue ...if nothing is done about the timing and fuel !!!
like the old staying has always been ..."its all about timing" ..."timing is everything" ...

 

“The Dyno tuners cause torque dips”—— that’s a new one! So apparently, you can put on a huge pipe with big mufflers along with too big of a cam and a “real Dynon tuner” will tune out the torque dip. I guess I never saw a real tuner before.
It was explained previously in this thread that the tune sucked. The 2 runs depicted were less than 30 seconds apart — I doubt any tuning was done at all.

 

you obviously cant read either ...didnt say they are the cause !! ...never mind ..remember the other saying ..."if we have to explain , you wouldn't understand anyway " ...
trolling as you are ...w/o offering any help ... just shows that you really dont understand too much ...

 

Your words—- I think I understand! You need to know that if you increase AFR, it gets leaner.
You are the one that said dyno tuners are the problem with the dips.
Believe what you want— I think that in 25 years of dyno tuning, I understand a thing or 2 about tuning. And I can read just fine!

 

just telling the man that his tune is off (which he is a wear of already) is not offering much help ...if you have 25 years exp. dyno tuning ...why not offer sum advise with how to fix the map ....
oh ....that's is what he got from the tuner he run it at ...nothing, no help or advise (which is why he's on here asking for help )
it obvious the tune is way off ...was only trying to offer some help ...instead have to deal with nik picky word games with a troll .

 

Congrats!! You made my ignore list.

 

How could one help by looking at a WOT sheet? To even start to help. One would need a bit more info. Like the calibration that the bike was running on during the pulls, and logged data off that calibration. One just can't look at a sheet with AF on it in a graph that is a half inch wide. Even with all this info. One still can't do anything with a cam that is a known to produce this type of curve with low compression. I don't see a dip. I see a cam that doesn't turn on until 3000.

 

Another thing to look at is that the 2 pulls were done in different gears.. 5th and 6th... I would like to know what the gear ratios are for the 2 different gears..

But for as little as was done to the motor, you should be happy....

Also, There is definitely a combination of issues there.
1)Compression to properly drive the cam
2) fuel
3) slip ons

Without the proper compression that cam will be soft on bottom....
it should also run out a little better on top...