95 FLHTC electra glide fuse box diagram?
 

I've been trying to sort this wiring nightmare out for over 3 weeks know and am desperate at this point. I'm a disabled veteran and she is my daily rider. I found a pretty bad parasitic draw around 2.53 DCA, when unplugging the very first fuse it tanks to .5 DCA (I know it's the radio but dont know what all is tied into that 1 amp fuse). My service manual does not mention the fuse box. I have also noticed my voltage gauge is intermittent so well (also gets condensation inside the glass). This has truly been a nightmare and am forced to ask for help. I need my radio functioning as memory issues are trouble some (need GPS) and music is assigned therapy for my PTSD. I greatly appreciate any help at all, ride safe and free.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...12e0709b04.jpg
Parasitic draw
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...d2008353a7.jpg
Makes draw down to .5 DCA

delete

why is that? Did I do something?

no - i was re-typing

That's a cheapie meter, but looking at how you have it hooked up, are you sure it's not 2.5 milliamps you have there?

You also said it has a 1 amp fuse but if it has a 2.5 amp draw on a 1 amp fuse, I would think the fuse would blow.

Condensation in the gauges is normal unfortunately.

What is the actual problem?

here is the link to the centech meter instructions - https://manuals.harborfreight.com/ma...8999/98025.pdf

I am looking at a 1993-1994 FLT manual and for an FLHTC the limit is 10ma and for an ultra it is 15ma with the bike off. The ma draw is for radio memory and radio and CB memory. It is in section 8 under Milliamp Draw Test. Looking at this and your meter - I am not certain you have an issue there. Book shows a 1A fuse in the wiring diagram.

Yes sir, that is the setting I was told by a bike tech to use to measure the parasitic draw. Problem is the radio will go in and out on a good day but 97% of the time it's out. When I try to turn it on it dim and flickers (dimmer only) but not the actual clock. The ST on the radio (antenna frequency) tries to connect 1st second then just disappears and get no sound (not even static at that point). When it does work for a few minutes yes then you can hear the whine like a ground upon accelerating. I tried jiggling wires and used cleaner to clean connections which worked for a very short time, then I hit a bump and it went out again. I've also sanded every ground point I could fine with 600 grit.

something is shorting somewhere cause my voltage gauge is not accurate and it drops a lot in sequence with blinkers. The sanding of grounds fixed the left turn signal instrument light and it always works now but didnt before. The guy who had black Betty before me did a hack job all over the bikes wiring system. I've never seen a 1 amp fuse like that either and found it very odd plus no fuses were blown. I did notice when disconnecting the connector to the rear lights (located under the left side cover) the radio worked flawlessly but after reconnecting and disconnecting again I havent been able to get it back on since. Thank you for your time and assistance.

Few things to check that are easy. The radio should have a ground to the chassis, but on some bikes that gets disconnected or broken and then it relies on the antenna. I would do a wiggle test - just wiggle and tug the all the harness you can access and see if you can make it change.

You could run a wire from the radio body to the bike chassis or even battery negative to see if the radio is losing ground. Not sure on your year, but many run a ground to the steering head somewhere. I don't think you have a short - I think you might have a bad ground or connection. A short would blow a fuse or make smoke.

You could have a missing or broken ground - verify the frame is grounded well to the battery. Typically you will see the negative battery cable go to the frame and then the powertrain and there may also be a smaller ground wire run directly to the frame. On a rubber mount bike, running a good ground from battery to frame is always a good idea.

Obviously we can't see what you are working on, but hopefully these ideas get you started in the right direction. I don't think you have 2.5A draw, I think you have .0025A from looking at your meter assuming you had it in series with the negative cable when the bike was off.

I've done the wiggle and tug test with fai
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...36ed37d68f.jpg
Rats nest
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...30507ca7f6.jpg
Here is the reading with 1 amp radio fuse pulled out
ring on and off. Also noticed a ground from radio bracket ran to the neck securing a harness clamp. It's a 95 electra glide and I tried all those steps first (besides running a ground to the battery which sounds good to me). It blows my mind to have a 1 amp fuse for the radio which is why I was trying to figure out what that fuse spot is allocated for. My tech friend told me the reading should be around 0.125

Here's a link to the wiring diagrams for your bike if that helps

https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson....%3D1995+wiring

Take a look at WD6, WD7, & WD10.
It looks like 2 R/O wires come from the 1amp fuse. 1 wire goes to the radio Connector 27A position #1
The other wire goes to the Main Harness connector 2A pos #1. From the Main Harness it goes to a PCB (printed circuit board) connector 5B pos #3

I posted the manual spec for 93-94. I doubt it is different for 95. If he means .125A and your meter is where I suspect, I still think your reading is in mA. It looks like you are set on the 20mA setting and are reading 2.5 which would be 2.5mA not 2.5A.

I have to hit the sack, but my initial thoughts are connection or ground. Have you performed your charging system and regulator tests listed in the manual.

Your note about the rear lights and everything working perfectly also says something - possibly connection or rubbing found by happenstance of moving wires.

Hell with a bike that old, I would disconnect, inspect and reconnect all those snap together connectors.