Battery power goes to speedo, tach, TSSM, and siren. If you have a siren, I would try disconnecting that first, I have seen several higher than normal draws from sirens when their internal 9V batteries go bad. If you're having other issues that make you suspect TSSM, then don't listen to me, here's the battery power circuit:
Battery power goes to speedo, tach, TSSM, and siren. If you have a siren, I would try disconnecting that first, I have seen several higher than normal draws from sirens when their internal 9V batteries go bad. If you're having other issues that make you suspect TSSM, then don't listen to me, here's the battery power circuit:
Something is drawing the battery down pretty quickly(2-3 days). I show about .98ma draw when I do a parasitic draw test. If I pull the 15a battery fuse it goes down to .2 if I unplug the tssm its at .51. Originally thought it was bleeding to ground thru the voltage regulator but same result with new VR.
If you're accurately recording less than 1 milliamp draw, than that is well within specifications depending on what your bike is equipped with. Try this test if you are not doing it in this way, also shows what draws are normal given installed equipment.
If you're accurately recording less than 1 milliamp draw, than that is well within specifications depending on what your bike is equipped with. Try this test if you are not doing it in this way, also shows what draws are normal given installed equipment.
We tested new and old regulator with a test light from the negative battery terminal, all 3 posts of where the stator plugs into show voltage. On my personal bike I do not get any voltage detected doing this same test. It appears the battery voltage is flowing thru the VR(HD brand) backwards causing drain. I guess the new VR purchased from the dealer is bad. Gonna call cycle electric tomorrow to discuss issues and see what they say. If they verify there should not be voltage we will order one from them.
Can anyone verify that the following is a legitimate test. I've read the sticky in this section isn't correct for this test.
Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
My bike doesn't light up. The bike im working it does with the old vr as well as new one purchased from dealer and drains the battery quickly.
There is no test like that in the Electrical Diagnostic Manual. I had a VR off a bike that had been wrecked, it had cosmetic damage to the case but worked fine. I replaced it and for kicks tore the damaged one apart. I think there is just too much going on inside that unit to do a simple diode check.
This is basically how the HD EDM tells you to check the charging system.
Testing:
Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.
Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.
Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.
Battery testing:
First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.
If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
Voltmeter test:
Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.
12.7 v = 100% charge
12.6 v = 75%
12.3 v = 50%
12.0 v = 25%
11.8 v = 0%
Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.
If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:
LHCM 0.5
RHCM 0.5
Speedometer/ IM 0.5
Regulator 1.0
ABS 1.0
BCM 1.0
ECM 1.0
Security Siren 20.0
Radio 0.5
Amplifier 0.5
CB Module 0.5
If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.
Charging System Testing:
Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.
With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.
Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.
One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.
Voltage Regulator Testing
Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator.
If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.
08-01-2020, 09:32 PM
