Im looking into various cams right now. I know people are high on woods and S&S. Im just a die hard andrews guy. If Im swapping cams, im sticking with andrews.

 

Hi - in simplest explanation, adjusting timing will affect your A/F ratio because adjusting timing affects how the engine is running which affects how the carb draws fuel, but adjusting jetting has no effect of timing because timing is mechanically or electronically set to happen a a physical point in time.

 

We do not "fuel" a bike, to compensate for advanced timing, and vice versa, here.
The engine will alert us as to where it wants to be timed, and it's fuel needs.
Scott

 

If you are asking, that suggests that you are not completely satisfied with the performance from your build. Put the bigger SE big bore carb/intake on.

 

yes i did mean to say a 185 jet to start with. a lot of folks think once they get there heads ported they need huge jets. there is not enough work done to that motor to need a lot of extra fuel. if you are using plug reading to dial the carb in then you should know that extra fat and lean will have the same color on the plugs, none. when they are to fat they was the plug clean so it looks like it may be lean but it is just too fat. give it a try you might be surprised.

 

Just so you know you can judge an a/f mixture just by looking at the plugs... But not by the way we used to do it by checking the amount of deposit on the porcelain. The ring that surrounds the porcelain that has the electrode welded to it will show wether it's lean or rich. It will also tell if it's too hot or cold of a plug....

 

While the AFR sampling in the dyno run does seem to indicate that the sniffer had an air leak, another issue could be the shape of the needle.. If the needle is too wide at the end, it can set the WOT fueling and the main-jet becomes ineffectual.

 

The cv 40 and 44 should not be used in the same sentence as performance. Decent carbs for what they are, but definitely at the bottom of the barrel in the performance department. Mikuni 45 , 48 or an S&S super G if you’re going to change carbs.

 

Really!

 

all depends upon what you are looking for. the engine is an air pump and is finite in flow.
nascars run 750cfm unit and make 800hp easily. so if you put this on a beater, the housewife in a mini van smokes you why?

too many factors but largely how the machine is built. a race car is usually geared low so the engine comes up to speed quickly and pretty much stays there as there is little rpm drop between gears. what this does is make the flow through the carb high which leads to torque. your beater isn't like that so it bogs at throttle and loses torque till engine rpm brings up velocity the carb needs and you are not geared down so granny in the mini is matched from the factory and smokes you.
now on the flip, the carb can act as a restrictor plate and keep hp down since it can not supply the air pumps demand.
on jetting, be careful as the saying goes, lean is mean and it screams. you can cook your engine quickly so an err to the rich is not so bad.
for grins and giggles: on my sport, i run the 40 and yes, i could benefit form a larger carb as mine does act as a restrictor. i can pull up to speed but have more to go which if i have open road, rpm will slowly pull up, mine is built for top end and yep i lose a tad on the low but really not notice-able since the transmission is geared down to pull the international gearing.