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1986 FLT transformation

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  #61  
Old 02-26-2017, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
Very Nice man...... Go straight to a 96" build. You won't regret it... Any head work? and what cam and Carb did you choose?
I went 96". I am replacing the valves, springs, seals and keepers now. I got a black super E carb and andrews cam.
 
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Old 02-26-2017, 10:39 AM
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Your not going to use that washer on the crank are you. Doesn't look as if it leaves enough splines for the compensator.. especially if your building a torque monster....
 
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Old 02-26-2017, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
Your not going to use that washer on the crank are you. Doesn't look as if it leaves enough splines for the compensator.. especially if your building a torque monster....
I was going to via the instructions but you bring up a good point that I over looked. What are your thoughts on it's usefulness? What's its purpose in the first place?
 
  #64  
Old 02-26-2017, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Rowansdad
I was going to via the instructions but you bring up a good point that I over looked. What are your thoughts on it's usefulness? What's its purpose in the first place?
I would guess it's there for primary chain alignment.
 
  #65  
Old 02-26-2017, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
I would guess it's there for primary chain alignment.
It's much smaller diameter but an exact standard thickness for alignment of the front sprocket on newer TCs. Older Harley's had a selection of at least 10 thickness ranges to align things.
 
  #66  
Old 02-26-2017, 08:15 PM
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Yea, I'm pretty sure whenever you got a new stator and rotor that you would also get a .010" .020"and a .050" shim to align the front compensator to the clutch basket... Never seen anything that thick on an Evo....
 
  #67  
Old 02-27-2017, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
Yea, I'm pretty sure whenever you got a new stator and rotor that you would also get a .010" .020"and a .050" shim to align the front compensator to the clutch basket... Never seen anything that thick on an Evo....
Yeah I think your correct because when I checked my old shim it is basically .020". I think I'm gonna try and find a pack of shims to allign everything with.
 
  #68  
Old 02-27-2017, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Rowansdad
Yeah I think your correct because when I checked my old shim it is basically .020". I think I'm gonna try and find a pack of shims to allign everything with.
Start with properly shimming the Rotor and then the compensator.....
 
  #69  
Old 04-24-2017, 07:38 PM
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So I have been bad at posting pics of the work I've done. I got my frame swingarm and other parts back from the powder coater. After the guy sandblasted the frame he found some rust in the squarish area where the swingarm mounts. I cut out the the rotted area and tig welded in some new metal in. I have the motor all back together. The motor is back in the frame and the front end is back on the frame. I am trying to decide at what I should do about the transmission. She had a little trouble going into 3rd and 4th under throttle load. I am not sure what transmissions will fit or if i should rebuild what I have? Any opinions or ideas would be much appreciated. I have also came up with a new battery relocation box for u see the seat. I attached a few photos of where I am at now.


 
  #70  
Old 04-28-2017, 07:24 AM
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Looking good!

On the transmission, pull the shift drum and forks, then the gear set.

If all gears/bearings/shafts look good, there's a Baker smooth shift kit that could be used to improve shifting under load, check shift forks closely for bends or wear.

I'd go with the overshift ratchet pawl kit too.

New gaskets and seals and good to go.

https://bakerdrivetrain.com/collecti...oth-shift-kit?

https://bakerdrivetrain.com/collecti...nt=23522346307
 

Last edited by Schex; 04-28-2017 at 07:33 AM.
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