valve springs
#1
valve springs
Any advice on Sifton valve spring or Crane ? I'm thinking on pulling my heavy springs out and replacing with stock pressure springs,this is what should have been installed by my Indy to go with an ev27 cam. I've been reading a lot and learned a lot about three style lifters and when and why to use them.
Hylift Johnson web site is very informative.
Hylift Johnson web site is very informative.
#2
If your current (stock) valve springs have no issue handling the ev27, I wouldn't waste my time or money. the ev27 is made for stock springs.
Lighter valvetrain even with the same spring pressures should make more power, but on an 80hp or so engine, don't expect much.
Now if you are after every hundredth in a drag race or after every tenth in a dyno contest, maybe it would be worth it.
Save your money.
Lighter valvetrain even with the same spring pressures should make more power, but on an 80hp or so engine, don't expect much.
Now if you are after every hundredth in a drag race or after every tenth in a dyno contest, maybe it would be worth it.
Save your money.
#3
When I said heavy I didn't mean weight,I meant pressure rating in lbs. They are not stock,they basically are for cam with a 0.550" and up."high lift cam" ... Mine is 0.495"
Need stock springs, 140#-150# closed.
I am now convinced my very noisy valve train is because of missed-match of cam-lifter-spring combination.
Need stock springs, 140#-150# closed.
I am now convinced my very noisy valve train is because of missed-match of cam-lifter-spring combination.
Last edited by glidein wide; 05-19-2017 at 07:40 PM.
#5
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glidein wide (05-20-2017)
#6
The heavy spring with a square lobe shock of the EV27 can cause a lifter to not recover BUT my 89" with 650 lift behives and W6H was undectable.
OK, my 130" has beehives, 640 lift cam, quick ratio roller rocker arms and S&S lifters, it does have valve train noise, strange thing about it is when the engine was built the first time you could only hear a slight slight roller rocker sound going down the road. This build it has a little bit of the pissed off sewing machine sound, lifter depth set the same, oil pressure at idle is exceptional so lifter bleed off isn't the issue. With some road miles it did tame down some but have learned to live with it and not drive myself crazy from the slight noise that remains. Motto of the story, first engine with valve noise and don't know what is causing it but running it's 3rd season.
OK, my 130" has beehives, 640 lift cam, quick ratio roller rocker arms and S&S lifters, it does have valve train noise, strange thing about it is when the engine was built the first time you could only hear a slight slight roller rocker sound going down the road. This build it has a little bit of the pissed off sewing machine sound, lifter depth set the same, oil pressure at idle is exceptional so lifter bleed off isn't the issue. With some road miles it did tame down some but have learned to live with it and not drive myself crazy from the slight noise that remains. Motto of the story, first engine with valve noise and don't know what is causing it but running it's 3rd season.
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glidein wide (05-20-2017)
#8
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glidein wide (05-20-2017)
#9
Bob,I didn't post video because I know the sound is something more than normal,as far as the current pressure of my heavy springs,tried getting info and it's around 175# closed. Oils.....tried everything to experiment.never synthetics.
Hylift Johnson explains with a race spring like mine,a stock lifter like mine has the wrong bleed rate, I could buy the "R" lifter to go with the spring I have and should solve the noise problems..but...will cut the life of the valve train way down . This is not the way to go for street reliability of course.
John jzjz has confirmed this much earlier,the correct fix here is to match the spring to my lifter and cam I am running before excessive wear is caused.
Anyone interested in lifter types should read the products on their site,they explain the difference in how many seconds of bleed off and when to use them.
"S" (slow) lifter,"R" (race) lifter , solid lifter ,combination of a solid/hydraulic lifter.
I ordered a spring compressor yesterday,$99 , to remove while head is on...have old springs in a box but why put those back on with their age when I can get new for under $100.....? Going to use the old "rope on the piston trick" .
Hylift Johnson explains with a race spring like mine,a stock lifter like mine has the wrong bleed rate, I could buy the "R" lifter to go with the spring I have and should solve the noise problems..but...will cut the life of the valve train way down . This is not the way to go for street reliability of course.
John jzjz has confirmed this much earlier,the correct fix here is to match the spring to my lifter and cam I am running before excessive wear is caused.
Anyone interested in lifter types should read the products on their site,they explain the difference in how many seconds of bleed off and when to use them.
"S" (slow) lifter,"R" (race) lifter , solid lifter ,combination of a solid/hydraulic lifter.
I ordered a spring compressor yesterday,$99 , to remove while head is on...have old springs in a box but why put those back on with their age when I can get new for under $100.....? Going to use the old "rope on the piston trick" .
#10
Have you contacted Andrews to find out what spring that they recommend for the EV-27? cams do require a specific installed spring pressure and a specific open spring pressure. I would start there. I do know my Woods 6 cam which is more aggressive (Not just on the ramp up but on the ramp down as well, where all your noise will occur) then the EV-27 is very quiet and I'm using BeeHives...
I would definitely start with phone call to Andrews.........
I would definitely start with phone call to Andrews.........