New to me 91 FXRS leaking from tappet blocks
#1
New to me 91 FXRS leaking from tappet blocks
Hi guys. Recently picked up a 91 FXRS, evo 80, it's leaking from the tappet blocks. I'd like to replace the seals down there, along with all the pushrod O rings. My rocker boxes are NOT leaking, so I'm planning to cut the Pushrods and replace with ez-install style ones. I called my HD dealer to see if SE made quick install rods for the evo, they don't think they do.
So I am looking at the S/S quickee or andrews EZ adjustable pushrods. I don't want to go through the top since it's not leaking.
Would anyone recommend one or the other? Also, will both work with factory pushrod tubes? If so, it looks like i'll need the following seals/o-rings to do this:
F/R tappet guide gaskets: pn 18633-48D, 48C
O rings for pushrod covers: pn 11132A, 11145A, 11157
Am I missing anything?
So I am looking at the S/S quickee or andrews EZ adjustable pushrods. I don't want to go through the top since it's not leaking.
Would anyone recommend one or the other? Also, will both work with factory pushrod tubes? If so, it looks like i'll need the following seals/o-rings to do this:
F/R tappet guide gaskets: pn 18633-48D, 48C
O rings for pushrod covers: pn 11132A, 11145A, 11157
Am I missing anything?
#2
Join Date: Jan 2011
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#3
Sung them down first (you'll need a 12 pt, 1/4" socket). Might do the trick.
Don't know about the Andrews, but I do know the S&S pushrods will work with the stock tubes. (Have to think the Andrews will as well).
At the risk of over-explaining, you're aware that there's a specific procedure for setting the pre-load on the pushrods, right? Basically you need to move the cam to the base circle, set one of the pushrods on that cylinder, wait until the lifter bleeds down, etc.
#4
I personally see no reason for adjustable pushrods...and so...I have none...
BTW The Person who recommends drilling a hole in the frame to access those Rocker box screws...is to be avoided ... even shunned...
Many Frames were replaced by the MoCo back in the day that was deemed a "big idea" by some dealerships even...
Last edited by Racepres; 05-08-2019 at 11:10 AM.
#5
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And IMO ya may as well go ahead and do 'em thru the Rockers... I have done more than a few...and only a shortened allen wrench is necessary that is a "special tool"
I personally see no reason for adjustable pushrods...and so...I have none...
BTW The Person who recommends drilling a hole in the frame to access those Rocker box screws...is to be avoided ... even shunned...
Many Frames were replaced by the MoCo back in the day that was deemed a "big idea" by some dealerships even...
I personally see no reason for adjustable pushrods...and so...I have none...
BTW The Person who recommends drilling a hole in the frame to access those Rocker box screws...is to be avoided ... even shunned...
Many Frames were replaced by the MoCo back in the day that was deemed a "big idea" by some dealerships even...
This was written up by a really smart guy
First put the bike in high gear and rotate the wheel forward until the valve to be adjusted just closes.
Then put a piece of tape on the bottom of the wheel.
Next rotate the wheel forward until the valve starts to open, put another piece of tape on the wheel.
Halfway between the two marks will put that lifter on the heel of the cam.
Now you can adjust that valve.
We usually add a quarter turn or so extra to make up for loss of length when tightening down the pushrods. Hope this helps.
John at Miacycles
adjustable S&S is the way to go..... never an issue and 32 tpi set to 27 flats...
Then put a piece of tape on the bottom of the wheel.
Next rotate the wheel forward until the valve starts to open, put another piece of tape on the wheel.
Halfway between the two marks will put that lifter on the heel of the cam.
Now you can adjust that valve.
We usually add a quarter turn or so extra to make up for loss of length when tightening down the pushrods. Hope this helps.
John at Miacycles
adjustable S&S is the way to go..... never an issue and 32 tpi set to 27 flats...
#6
And IMO ya may as well go ahead and do 'em thru the Rockers... I have done more than a few...and only a shortened allen wrench is necessary that is a "special tool"
I personally see no reason for adjustable pushrods...and so...I have none...
BTW The Person who recommends drilling a hole in the frame to access those Rocker box screws...is to be avoided ... even shunned...
Many Frames were replaced by the MoCo back in the day that was deemed a "big idea" by some dealerships even...
I personally see no reason for adjustable pushrods...and so...I have none...
BTW The Person who recommends drilling a hole in the frame to access those Rocker box screws...is to be avoided ... even shunned...
Many Frames were replaced by the MoCo back in the day that was deemed a "big idea" by some dealerships even...
I can't see how adjustable rods are better, but an expensive time saver. I have them on my TC, I always wonder if they will ever come loose.
#7
Join Date: Aug 2007
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#8
Nice... But I was Not taught that way... course...we had kickers when I was taught and now of course we need to rotate the engine with the trans engaged..
How to adjust...is nothing I worry about with my EVO...because I take the time to remove the pushrods, and put them back...
and yes... I know how to find the heel of the Cam when I both remove and replace..
How to adjust...is nothing I worry about with my EVO...because I take the time to remove the pushrods, and put them back...
and yes... I know how to find the heel of the Cam when I both remove and replace..
#9
#10
Checked them all with a torque wrench yesterday, they were all pretty snug and close to spec. Cleaned everything with brakeleen and took a short ride and it's still leaking pretty bad. Thinking it could be the tappet block itself. Attached is a picture. Anyway, I'm planning to order the adjustable pushrods, the o-rings and seals listed above, and new tappet blocks just in case. The engine has about 30k miles on it. Shpuld I replace the tappets while I'm in there?