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Rear Brake Problem on 91 Ultra

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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 12:57 PM
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Default Rear Brake Problem on 91 Ultra

Hi, I have just replaced my OEM Rear Brake Rotor/Disc . I replaced the Rear Rotor with a new Stainless one and changed the badly worn Pads with new Sintered aftermarket Pads.The old Pads were unevenly worn but still working. After fitting the new Rotor & Pads I went for a short ride.
The Rear Brake seized after a short distance.I stripped all the parts down and checked the Caliper movement with the Caliper detached from the main Caliper body. It all functioned although all the parts were very hot.
On removal I noticed that Sintered Pads were "shiny"on their faces.
I have recently renewed seals & cleaned the Master Cylinder .
All had been good until changing Rotor & Pads. Any ideas and suggestions welcome. Bungo
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 01:12 PM
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Mrs B and I had the pleasure of meeting up with Bungo a couple of weeks ago and everything seemed well with his bike! Doesn't quite compare as an event with the recent Texas gathering, as there were only three of us, however a great time was had in the Scottish sunshine.

Bungo, the only thing I can think of is that the caliper piston may be stuck/sticking in the caliper?
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by grbrown
Mrs B and I had the pleasure of meeting up with Bungo a couple of weeks ago and everything seemed well with his bike! Doesn't quite compare as an event with the recent Texas gathering, as there were only three of us, however a great time was had in the Scottish sunshine.

Bungo, the only thing I can think of is that the caliper piston may be stuck/sticking in the caliper?
Hi Sir Graham, It was a real pleasure to me you and Lady B and I think I can safely say that I must be one of the few, perhaps the only member of the HD Forums (USA)to have met you and your good lady in person.
On the subject of my Rear Brake.....The Caliper Piston is nice and clean and moves freely.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BungoBill
The Rear Brake seized after a short distance.
Do you mean as in it locked the rear wheel up or was creating enough drag to slow you down without brake application??

WP
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 01:57 PM
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I would think you removed the rear rim to install the new rotor and on that did you put the spacers back in their proper location. Also is the rear tire alignment correct. I have seen rotors drag on the pads before and cause everything to over heat including boiling the brake fluid which will cause more pressure on the system to apply even more brake.

Another thing i noticed with new rotors and pads is that some after market parts are thicker than oem causing the same issue.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BungoBill
Hi Sir Graham, It was a real pleasure to me you and Lady B and I think I can safely say that I must be one of the few, perhaps the only member of the HD Forums (USA)to have met you and your good lady in person.
I've actually met three other UK members, however you have the distinction of being the only one I haven't sold something to! I'm also optimistic of meeting a US member before long, who is heading to this side of the pond.

Best of luck sorting out your brake.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2016 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
I would think you removed the rear rim to install the new rotor and on that did you put the spacers back in their proper location. Also is the rear tire alignment correct. I have seen rotors drag on the pads before and cause everything to over heat including boiling the brake fluid which will cause more pressure on the system to apply even more brake.

Another thing i noticed with new rotors and pads is that some after market parts are thicker than oem causing the same issue.
Apologies for delay in responding. On removal and examination of the complete Caliper assembly I see that the "moving" part of the caliper is bent slightly which means the pressure is uneven when brake is applied. I have ordered and received an "aftermarket" part caliper complete with pads($150.00) from Holland. I appreciate your excellent comments and will check them out before I fit the new caliper as I cant afford to overheat it.
With regard to your suggestion re. spacers I have removed and reassembled them so often now that I dont think that is the cause however I will check them. I measured the thread distance on each side of the brake adusters and they match. I think that it might be a good idea to measure the distances from the Centres of Swing Arm shaft to the Centres of the rear axle on BOTH sides of the bike. Bungo
 

Last edited by BungoBill; Jun 11, 2016 at 03:00 PM.
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Old Jun 11, 2016 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by WP50
Do you mean as in it locked the rear wheel up or was creating enough drag to slow you down without brake application??

WP
apologies for delay in responding. It was dragging after brake application.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2016 | 07:35 PM
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post #7 can make some sense in this

Good LucK

WP
 
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Old Jun 11, 2016 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BungoBill
Apologies for delay in responding. On removal and examination of the complete Caliper assembly I see that the "moving" part of the caliper is bent slightly which means the pressure is uneven when brake is applied. I have ordered and received an "aftermarket" part caliper complete with pads($150.00) from Holland. I appreciate your excellent comments and will check them out before I fit the new caliper as I cant afford to overheat it.
With regard to your suggestion re. spacers I have removed and reassembled them so often now that I dont think that is the cause however I will check them. I measured the thread distance on each side of the brake adusters and they match. I think that it might be a good idea to measure the distances from the Centres of Swing Arm shaft to the Centres of the rear axle on BOTH sides of the bike. Bungo
Definitely the best way to assure alignment. good luck man....
 
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